コペンハーゲンファッションウィークSS27の8つの最高のショー

As compact as the city may be, there’s no denying that Copenhagen leaves a remarkably big footprint on the fashion world. The summer edition of fashion week in Denmark’s capital last week was a celebration of that impact. “There is a real sense of momentum around the SS27 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week,” Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of CPHFW, told Dazed. “Despite a challenging economic landscape, our brand community continues to show remarkable resilience, and this season demonstrates just how relevant and dynamic Nordic fashion is today.” 

This year marked the 20th anniversary of CPHFW, with 34 shows and presentations total from leading Nordic brands, emerging brands and international guests like Collina Strada. Ahead, we go through our favourites.

The first day of Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off with a strong start with Anne Sofie Madsen’s final presentation, “The New Desire”.  Part of the NEWTALENT Programme, her SS27 collection explored the “possibility of imagining beyond what is already familiar”. This, it seems, included imagining ruffled micro-hot pants, waterfall necklines, delightfully layered details (like metallic star print underwear under peach silk chiffon and organza).

As the brand put it in the show notes, the collection uses “desire as a starting point for transformation, possibility and new ways of constructing both clothing and identity.” The entire show also smelled amazing – cult-favourite Escentric Molecules was the official scent partner – and included a memorable live performance where the (incredibly iconic) Danish recorder virtuoso Michala Petri played increasingly larger instruments.

No show on the CPHFW calendar quite had the energy of Alectra Rothschild / MASCULINA SS27’s “Doll Parts (A transsexual Choreography)”, which took place late on Tuesday evening in the foggy underground Cisternerne museum (which used to be an old water tank). In an age of slow and subtle walks, models for the Danish clothing brand brought some major energy to the runway. There was strutting, there was dancing and (most importantly) there was bugle bead embroidery, lace, denim fishnet and fringe, inflatable latex and corsetry. The collection explored the tension between what affirms and restricts trans women. “The corset that cinches the waist. The tape that tucks away down there. The inflation that exaggerates our curves,” designer Alectra Rothschild wrote in the show notes. “The doll parts.”

Rumour has it that Sigurd Bank, the founder and designer behind Mfpen, is a hardcore kid. His more countercultural, anti-establishment approach to styling was felt throughout all elements of the SS27 show, where people packed up multiple flights of stairs to stand in a very hot room as the models walked down a makeshift runway. Despite the heat, the Mfpen models appeared unbothered in the effortless silhouettes (made from deadstock fabric) that the brand has become known for. 

For Galib Gassanoff, a Georgian designer of Azerbaijani descent, clothing is a way to explore his personal connection to the cultures he belongs to. After being raised on the outskirts of Tbilisi, Gassanoff founded Institution in 2024. His sixth collection, YAD, explored all things “foreign” – the place where “we exist and present our memories” – through sculptural knits, otherworldly silks and glimmering layers. For the show, Gassanoff filled the runway with a selection of carpets from the Caucasus, Anatolia, Northern Iran, and Central Asia, with the models walking barefoot, dressed in handmade jorabs and traditional socks.

Everyone was a skater girl at Paolina Russo’s SS27 show, “Lone Star”. Presented at Nørrebrohallen and open to the public, the show was half-concert (with live performances by Grace Ives and local band Haloplus+) and half skate session. After the models walked the runway in floral prints, denim shorts, oversized knits and pants chains, the ones who were carrying a skateboard hopped on it. Then, everyone started dancing – the perfect end.

In many ways, Solitude Studios is one big, collaborative scientific experiment. The Copenhagen-based label works with traditional craft disciplines such as wet felting of raw wool and natural dyeing (including using a peat bog near their studio). Their heavily sequined and lace SS27 collection, “Time Will Tell”, felt like an evolution for a brand previously defined by their natural-looking aesthetic. The pieces explored the accumulation of time, looking to the limestone quarries of southern Zealand, Denmark, to draw a parallel between geological formation, collective memory and the construction of garments.

Your driver has arrived! All of Nicklas Skovgaard’s models arrived in vintage vehicles, stepping out of the cars and down the runway – carrying handbags created in collaboration with HVISK in various colours and sizes. For his 13th collection, Skovgaard looked to the iconic girl groups of the 1960s, drawing inspiration from The Supremes, The Shangri-Las, and The Ronettes, to imagine his own girl band: The Skovgaardettes. “This collection is about the power of belonging while still insisting on individuality,” says the Danish designer says. This sense of collective identity was felt throughout the collection, which unfolded through a series of miniature wardrobes, each consisting of three looks, which was soundtracked to a live performance by True Blue, the musical project of Maya Laner.

New York–based fashion label Collina Strada knows how to pull of a memorable show – and her European debut, “Delirium in Bloom”, on the last day of CPHFW was no exception. For the collection, designer Hillary Taymour opened every box, bin, and shelf in the brand’s studio to creating an entire collection from the fabrics, trims, notions, and remnants they’ve accumulated over the years. “It reminded us that transformation doesn’t require more; it requires ingenuity,” Taymour wrote in the show notes. 

As compact as the city may be, there’s no denying that Copenhagen leaves a remarkably big footprint on the fashion world. The summer edition of fashion week in Denmark’s capital last week was a celebration of that impact. “There is a real sense of momentum around the SS27 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week,” Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of CPHFW, told Dazed. “Despite a challenging economic landscape, our brand community continues to show remarkable resilience, and this season demonstrates just how relevant and dynamic Nordic fashion is today.” 

This year marked the 20th anniversary of CPHFW, with 34 shows and presentations total from leading Nordic brands, emerging brands and international guests like Collina Strada. Ahead, we go through our favourites.

The first day of Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off with a strong start with Anne Sofie Madsen’s final presentation, “The New Desire”.  Part of the NEWTALENT Programme, her SS27 collection explored the “possibility of imagining beyond what is already familiar”. This, it seems, included imagining ruffled micro-hot pants, waterfall necklines, delightfully layered details (like metallic star print underwear under peach silk chiffon and organza).

As the brand put it in the show notes, the collection uses “desire as a starting point for transformation, possibility and new ways of constructing both clothing and identity.” The entire show also smelled amazing – cult-favourite Escentric Molecules was the official scent partner – and included a memorable live performance where the (incredibly iconic) Danish recorder virtuoso Michala Petri played increasingly larger instruments.

No show on the CPHFW calendar quite had the energy of Alectra Rothschild / MASCULINA SS27’s “Doll Parts (A transsexual Choreography)”, which took place late on Tuesday evening in the foggy underground Cisternerne museum (which used to be an old water tank). In an age of slow and subtle walks, models for the Danish clothing brand brought some major energy to the runway. There was strutting, there was dancing and (most importantly) there was bugle bead embroidery, lace, denim fishnet and fringe, inflatable latex and corsetry. The collection explored the tension between what affirms and restricts trans women. “The corset that cinches the waist. The tape that tucks away down there. The inflation that exaggerates our curves,” designer Alectra Rothschild wrote in the show notes. “The doll parts.”

Rumour has it that Sigurd Bank, the founder and designer behind Mfpen, is a hardcore kid. His more countercultural, anti-establishment approach to styling was felt throughout all elements of the SS27 show, where people packed up multiple flights of stairs to stand in a very hot room as the models walked down a makeshift runway. Despite the heat, the Mfpen models appeared unbothered in the effortless silhouettes (made from deadstock fabric) that the brand has become known for. 

For Galib Gassanoff, a Georgian designer of Azerbaijani descent, clothing is a way to explore his personal connection to the cultures he belongs to. After being raised on the outskirts of Tbilisi, Gassanoff founded Institution in 2024. His sixth collection, YAD, explored all things “foreign” – the place where “we exist and present our memories” – through sculptural knits, otherworldly silks and glimmering layers. For the show, Gassanoff filled the runway with a selection of carpets from the Caucasus, Anatolia, Northern Iran, and Central Asia, with the models walking barefoot, dressed in handmade jorabs and traditional socks.

Everyone was a skater girl at Paolina Russo’s SS27 show, “Lone Star”. Presented at Nørrebrohallen and open to the public, the show was half-concert (with live performances by Grace Ives and local band Haloplus+) and half skate session. After the models walked the runway in floral prints, denim shorts, oversized knits and pants chains, the ones who were carrying a skateboard hopped on it. Then, everyone started dancing – the perfect end.

In many ways, Solitude Studios is one big, collaborative scientific experiment. The Copenhagen-based label works with traditional craft disciplines such as wet felting of raw wool and natural dyeing (including using a peat bog near their studio). Their heavily sequined and lace SS27 collection, “Time Will Tell”, felt like an evolution for a brand previously defined by their natural-looking aesthetic. The pieces explored the accumulation of time, looking to the limestone quarries of southern Zealand, Denmark, to draw a parallel between geological formation, collective memory and the construction of garments.

Your driver has arrived! All of Nicklas Skovgaard’s models arrived in vintage vehicles, stepping out of the cars and down the runway – carrying handbags created in collaboration with HVISK in various colours and sizes. For his 13th collection, Skovgaard looked to the iconic girl groups of the 1960s, drawing inspiration from The Supremes, The Shangri-Las, and The Ronettes, to imagine his own girl band: The Skovgaardettes. “This collection is about the power of belonging while still insisting on individuality,” says the Danish designer says. This sense of collective identity was felt throughout the collection, which unfolded through a series of miniature wardrobes, each consisting of three looks, which was soundtracked to a live performance by True Blue, the musical project of Maya Laner.

New York–based fashion label Collina Strada knows how to pull of a memorable show – and her European debut, “Delirium in Bloom”, on the last day of CPHFW was no exception. For the collection, designer Hillary Taymour opened every box, bin, and shelf in the brand’s studio to creating an entire collection from the fabrics, trims, notions, and remnants they’ve accumulated over the years. “It reminded us that transformation doesn’t require more; it requires ingenuity,” Taymour wrote in the show notes.