Rewrite and translate this title Hannah Martin Is Jewellery’s Rule Breaker to Japanese between 50 and 60 characters. Do not include any introductory or extra text; return only the title in Japanese.

Martin is interested in the contradictions within the role and meaning of the jewel, particularly between ownership, possession or belonging and the freedom of individual expression. And also between masculine and feminine, hard and soft, as well as the dichotomies of constraint and freedom in the jewel’s physical attributes. The tension generated by these contradictions and conflicts gives her work its compelling power; this tension was encapsulated in her Somebody’s Sins collection. Conjured around her fictional, enigmatic, underworld character Mr S, and enmeshed in a dark web of dangerous beauty, the collection oozed raw sensuality, with wickedly hedonistic yet romantic undertones. In the startling Possession cuff, the strength of the monumental gold structure, with its sharp planes and angles, contrasts with the soft vulnerability suggested by glimpses of flesh, the fragile wrist beneath. Similarly, the golden shackle bangle, which first appeared in her Aguila Dorada collection, with its piratical theme and promises of secret, stolen, hidden treasure was, suggests Martin, not about capture but a “bid for freedom”.

In 2020, true to her roots, Martin unleashed the collection A New Act of Rebellion. It was more daring, confrontational and confident than ever before, a re-imagining of punk emblems, particularly the chain and safety pin. These both suggest the connectivity expressed in the collection’s standout jewel, a bangle constructed of massively oversized interlocking gold links, mechanistic yet sensual. It even doubles as a table sculpture. She was inspired by heavy industrial steel chains, the kind you find with padlocks on gates, and explained that she saw the chain not as restraint but as freedom, strength and power. Again anticipating current trends, she saw the necklace as the ultimate cross-gender jewel. The carefully orchestrated jumble of different links and colours of gold, with glimpses of smooth dark ebony and dangling safety pins, was intended to recreate the thrown-together aesthetic of original punk jewellery. “I felt so strong working on this one,” she says. “I had been through dramatic break-ups, both personal and professional, and I felt as if all my power came alive with this collection. I imagined an empty, post-party room, destroyed yet still pulsating with energy. I feel like this was me coming into my own.” It was also a milestone marker that showcased Martin’s exquisite attention to detail. It examined the ingenuity of construction and the finesse of the skilled, traditional craftsmanship that runs throughout her work. This runs counter to the provocative concepts that continue to rock the jewellery status quo.

In between these collections, Martin has taken on various design collaborations, including for Chaumet and Louis Vuitton, and her successful Pierced collection has toured the world at piercing events from Los Angeles to Singapore. There were tough times, she says, when the idea of a good salary was tempting. Yet, remarkably, Martin has never diverted from her path, never compromised, remaining utterly true to herself, her values and vision. It’s paid off: she has gathered a loyal celebrity clientele, an illustrious roll call that includes Keith Richards, Patti Smith, FKA twigs, Cara Delevingne, Erin O’Connor, Helen Mirren, Billie Piper, Kristin Scott Thomas and Wayne McGregor. 

Martin is interested in the contradictions within the role and meaning of the jewel, particularly between ownership, possession or belonging and the freedom of individual expression. And also between masculine and feminine, hard and soft, as well as the dichotomies of constraint and freedom in the jewel’s physical attributes. The tension generated by these contradictions and conflicts gives her work its compelling power; this tension was encapsulated in her Somebody’s Sins collection. Conjured around her fictional, enigmatic, underworld character Mr S, and enmeshed in a dark web of dangerous beauty, the collection oozed raw sensuality, with wickedly hedonistic yet romantic undertones. In the startling Possession cuff, the strength of the monumental gold structure, with its sharp planes and angles, contrasts with the soft vulnerability suggested by glimpses of flesh, the fragile wrist beneath. Similarly, the golden shackle bangle, which first appeared in her Aguila Dorada collection, with its piratical theme and promises of secret, stolen, hidden treasure was, suggests Martin, not about capture but a “bid for freedom”.

In 2020, true to her roots, Martin unleashed the collection A New Act of Rebellion. It was more daring, confrontational and confident than ever before, a re-imagining of punk emblems, particularly the chain and safety pin. These both suggest the connectivity expressed in the collection’s standout jewel, a bangle constructed of massively oversized interlocking gold links, mechanistic yet sensual. It even doubles as a table sculpture. She was inspired by heavy industrial steel chains, the kind you find with padlocks on gates, and explained that she saw the chain not as restraint but as freedom, strength and power. Again anticipating current trends, she saw the necklace as the ultimate cross-gender jewel. The carefully orchestrated jumble of different links and colours of gold, with glimpses of smooth dark ebony and dangling safety pins, was intended to recreate the thrown-together aesthetic of original punk jewellery. “I felt so strong working on this one,” she says. “I had been through dramatic break-ups, both personal and professional, and I felt as if all my power came alive with this collection. I imagined an empty, post-party room, destroyed yet still pulsating with energy. I feel like this was me coming into my own.” It was also a milestone marker that showcased Martin’s exquisite attention to detail. It examined the ingenuity of construction and the finesse of the skilled, traditional craftsmanship that runs throughout her work. This runs counter to the provocative concepts that continue to rock the jewellery status quo.

In between these collections, Martin has taken on various design collaborations, including for Chaumet and Louis Vuitton, and her successful Pierced collection has toured the world at piercing events from Los Angeles to Singapore. There were tough times, she says, when the idea of a good salary was tempting. Yet, remarkably, Martin has never diverted from her path, never compromised, remaining utterly true to herself, her values and vision. It’s paid off: she has gathered a loyal celebrity clientele, an illustrious roll call that includes Keith Richards, Patti Smith, FKA twigs, Cara Delevingne, Erin O’Connor, Helen Mirren, Billie Piper, Kristin Scott Thomas and Wayne McGregor.