次の「it bag」は何ですか？

Rewrite

After a Balenciaga City and Saint Laurent Mombasa resurgence into the zeitgeist, 13 industry insiders predict their successor.

What will be the next it bag? — Courtesy of Gucci

I love bags. I love touching, smelling, and talking about bags. I love scrolling through hundreds of pages on Vestiaire trying to score a deal on a vintage bag. I love flipping through old Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen pictures of the 2010s where they carried their bags haphazardly. I love Caleb Snell’s unboxing bag videos. You get the point.

Two of my favourite bags are having a so-called moment: Saint Laurent’s Mombassa and Balenciaga’s City. It’s nothing surprising coming from this nostalgia-induced generation enduring the consequences of late-stage capitalism where regurgitation is easier than innovation. And yet, here I am, begging vintage sellers to take my money in exchange for arm candy.

But everything that goes up must come down, and the current it bags are bound to be dethroned. But what’s to come next? We asked 13 industry experts to weigh in, and below is what they said.

Brenda Weischer
Content Creator (@brendahashtag)

Gucci Bamboo bag

I send my followers The RealReal and Vestiaire Collective links every month via my newsletter to help them make sensible buys as I find the retail prices on designer bags outrageous, and in the last few months I have mostly sent them Gucci Bamboo models. There is a lot on the market as they were mass produced back then and they are all under 500 dollars / euros mostly.

We can be pretty certain with the already released lookbooks that Demna is banking on Gucci’s icons and nostalgia, so a lot of people will be looking at these models. I find they go with everything and aren’t super attention grabbing in terms of a big logo or anything. I buy almost exclusively second hand as I find most good things have been designed already and these in all black are a classic.

Frederic Saint Parck
Designer & Art Director at Miss Sixty

Paul’s Boutique bag

I don’t think it had a name but all the girls in my secondary school had one. And in secondary school where the boys had the plastic JD sports bags, seeing faux leather Paul’s boutique bag was a sign of sophistication lol.

It needs a comeback for the girlies with taste but don’t have the bank or priorities to spend hundreds or thousands of pounds on a bag. I think that’s why you like it ‘cause it still shows that you know what you’re about.

Gill Linton
Founder of Byronesque

As Four Circle bag

Vintage or new, people use bags to belong rather than be themselves. Bags don’t need to be questioned. We are punched in the face so many times with a logo print or silhouette. Few bags support a unique identity like clothes or shoes do. A bag that makes “It bag” status is the kiss of death – they get copied so quickly that the status doesn’t last very long and the title is meaningless.

We brought back the As Four circle bag with Three As Four in 2023, because of the shape and also because of the four designers, their integrity, authenticity and what they created culturally at the time.

As Four were the New York’s Lower East Side gang in the early 2000s. Conspicuous by their unique signature look, they collectively walked and biked around part of the city that they carved out before anyone else, like futuristic Warholianesque pied pipers. Wherever they went became a home for a close group of creatives following their own paths, together, united by the As Four circle bag, worn and acknowledged like an avant-garde secret handshake.

And now you have so many copies of that bag that people think that the original is a copy. Everything has become simultaneously old and new at the same time. But even with the re-issue, an OG As Four circle bag is still best.

Hanna Samson
Founder of Haut

Any Margiela bag pre 2009

It’s the ultimate antidote to an it-bag. I owned and sadly sold this Margiela bag. I never figured out what year it was and I look for it every other day. It’s so rare and special. It looks like something my grandad would wear or you see on a taxi driver. It gave me true comfort.

Honourable mention: a Cartier three band bag, because it’s the extension to a wedding ring. And why get married if you can make yourself happy?

Minyoung Gil
Leather goods designer at Balenciaga

Gucci Buongiorno Hobo bag

When I was a child, I vividly remember my mother wearing this bag almost every day. As a professor and a career woman, she was constantly on the move, always carrying stacks of documents and her laptop. This bag offered exceptional capacity and [was] large enough to hold all her daily essentials while remaining effortless to carry and easy to style.

Its versatility allowed it to complement a wide range of outfits, subtly shifting the attitude of her look from practical to refined. The canvas construction is beautifully executed, and the leather strap is accented with oversized rings and a mousquettone clasp which adds character without excess. The whipstitched detailing on the body of the bag shows a subtle handcrafted element, enhancing the design’s understated simplicity while reinforcing its durability and timeless appeal.

My mother’s hobo bag is beautifully worn from years of use. She no longer carries it, but perhaps it is time for it to find new life with me.

Hannan Besovic
Content Creator (@ideservecouture)

Chloé Paddington bag

I think I will have to cheat because my wish actually came true. Chloé’s Paddington is a piece of fashion history that should not be forgotten. The Paddington is, if not, one of the most popular it bags of all time but it’s just such a presence. With the signature massive padlock, it just screams cool and casual with a dash of [an] “I don’t care” attitude. It definitely needed a comeback because it’s Chloé’s signature bag that perfectly incorporates the spirit of a Chloé woman.

Ameli Lindgren
Founder of Nordic Poetry

Fendi Spider Bag

The era of micro-bags is fading, replaced by functional, oversized totes and shoulder bags that feel intentional rather than decorative. Styles like the Fendi Spider Bag signal a renewed appetite for statement silhouettes, while the Balenciaga “Le City” Bag (c. 2001) – re-released in 2024 to massive demand – is already deep into its comeback. Rooted in the ultimate indie-sleaze era, it feels like a safe bet for continued relevance. In the same vein, the Chloé Paddington (c. 2005) deserves renewed attention: heavy, tactile, and unapologetically bold, it captures a time when bags were emotional, weighty objects of desire—something fashion is clearly craving again.

What I love about the Fendi Spider Bag, Balenciaga Le City, and the Chloé Paddington is their presence. They come from an era when bags were expressive, functional, and unapologetically bold. They deserve a comeback because fashion is shifting away from micro-bags toward pieces with personality and emotional weight—bags that feel lived-in, directional, and statement-making again.

Sofia Ferreira
Senior Online Editor at Wonderland Magazine

Prada Metal Ring bag

I love a tiny, performative bag. Lip liner and a sticky, sparkly gloss in one pouch, all the patience I have left for battling an Oxford Circus packed with tourists on my way home from work in the other. This Prada SS03 number is structured, well humoured, her handles recalling my grandma’s 80s shower pole, and just big enough to tuck neatly under a massive fur coat. She’s a bit freaky, and oh so pretty.

Мilena Аgbaba
Fashion Stylist

Chloé Bracelet Bag

It’s definitely already had a comeback of sorts as Chemena Kamali reinterpreted it in her AW24 collection for Chloé, but I’ve always had an obsession with the Chloé Bracelet bag – 2002, Phoebe Philo era. It was produced in so many different materials, colourways and designs, I think [it] allows people to retain some individualism which can sometimes get lost when we’re constantly recycling bags from the past.

I’m a magpie and a maximalist whilst also trying to keep it understated ha! I love the simplicity of the colour ways whilst they’re covered in intricate beadwork and I love the use of mixed metals. It scratches the maximalist in me without things becoming gaudy.

Similar to the Fendi Baguette in a way it feels like the options of this bag are unlimited and they all have their own little personalities. My birthday’s in May…

Nicole Brixi
Creative Strategist at Condé Nast

Pucci Silk handbag

Honestly? Quiet luxury had its moment, but it’s giving emotional flatline. We’ve had recession core and it was chic for healing the wallet, sure, but now I just want (need) to feel something again.

My hot take is Silk scarf bags, bold prints, playful silhouettes, think Pucci and old Coach monogram, they bring me back to that MyScene-dolls-adjacent fantasy they promised us adulthood was going to feel like.

Joe Joden
Editorial & Social Writer, Wonderland Magazine

Prada Studded Shoulder bag

Specifically the black [one] with cargo pockets and flap with pink studded straps. It’s probably one of the only fashion items that have stayed in my wishlist for so long, even after the endless style developments I’ve been through over the years. I wish I could say that I found it digging through runway images or the Prada archives but I saw Playboi Carti wearing one from the same collection and it was love at first sight.

Gabriel Rykel
Founder of Break. Archive

Dior Saddle bag

Without question, the Dior Saddle Bag from the John Galliano era at Dior [deserves a comeback]. In terms of specific iterations, I’m particularly drawn to the denim and floral versions from the early 2000s. These styles feel especially relevant right now, they sit perfectly at the intersection of archive nostalgia and Dior’s current creative direction, with florals and denim once again resurfacing on the runway. It feels like a natural moment for these pieces to re-enter the conversation as cultural references.

The Saddle bag is, quite simply, sexy. It’s effortless, easy to wear, and incredibly versatile, equally during the day or thrown over the shoulder at night. Its asymmetrical shape made it instantly recognisable at a time when handbags were becoming cultural symbols rather than just accessories. What I love most is that no two Saddle bags feel the same. Each iteration tells a different story, from bold prints to experimental materials, which is why it remains so collectible today.

One of my favourite pieces is John Galliano’s “newspaper” Saddle bag. We once had an original version pass through our hands, the same print that became iconic after appearing in Sex and the City. The corresponding dress worn on the show later sold at auction for around $250,000. We sold the bag for £20,000, and even then, it felt like a museum piece. It was white printed leather, incredibly delicate, and genuinely nerve-wracking to handle — but unforgettable.

To me, that’s the power of the Saddle bag: it’s not just a product, it’s a fashion artefact. And that’s exactly why it deserves its place back in the zeitgeist.

Juliette Eleuterio
Social Media Editor, Wonderland Magazine

Prada’s grandfather’s bag

And as for me, I haven’t stopped thinking about this pouchy nylon and leather number – a 1913 Mario Prada original – that was introduced by Raf and Mrs P on their SS24 runway. The show notes described it as featuring “a hand-carved fastening depicting a mythological figure.” Whatever that creepy doll head is, it’s for the freaks!

Words by Juliette Eleuterio

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