メット・ガラ2025で見たい黒人スタイルの仕立て

Since its inception in 1948, the Met Gala has been many things. An irreverent celebration of all things camp; an anarchic ode to punk’s couture chaos; an exploration of China’s influence on Western fashion; plus tributes to the likes of Jackie Kennedy, Diana Vreeland, Elsa Schiaparelli, Monsieur Dior, and Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. 2025, however, is the first time the Met Gala’s theme – and accompanying Costume Institute exhibit – has wholly focused on Black culture, specifically the role that style plays in forming Black identities across the Atlantic diaspora. With a focus on the figure of the Black dandy – and a ‘Tailored for you’ dress code – this year’s event is the chance for brands and guests to look further afield, enlisting the wealth of Black design talent the industry has to offer, or searching through the archives to give past Black designers their flowers. Though the looks may already be locked in, this is what Dazed’s editors and writers want to see happen at this year’s Met.

KACION MAYERS, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, PRINT

Forget the slick tailoring – I want the unexpected, a look that makes you double take. It’s the perfect opportunity to spotlight the Black women pushing menswear – Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, and Mowalola. Picture Timothée Chalamet in look five of Mowalola’s SS25 collection. Or Playboi Carti in that skin-tight, cherry red ‘Ebony’ tee.

Supporting young Black design talent is key. Kendrick Lamar in custom Martine Rose, as per. I’m also manifesting Erykah Badu or Lauryn Hill in a custom moment from CSM grad Francesca Lake. The same goes for André 3000 in an avant-garde Comme des Garçons look. I’m excited, and though I don’t know what to expect, I do know you can’t have fear and know style. To me, Black dandyism is about turning heads, being provocative and pushing boundaries. I hope this Met Gala lives up to that.

TED STANSFIELD, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, DIGITAL

Dapper Dan is surely one of the most quintessential dandies. He has got such style, but is also kind of punk in the way that he bootlegs luxury brands. I think it’d be cool to see the two Tylers – Tyler, the Creator and Tyla – in looks from him; maybe Tyla could wear the look he made for Diane Dixon (the one Gucci got in trouble for copying at its 2018 Cruise show).

EMMA ELIZABETH DAVISON, FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR

Andre Walker is one of fashion’s most elusive figures, but also one of its most inspiring, and he absolutely deserves to be celebrated at the Met and beyond. Rising up in 90s NY, he was upcycling bits and pieces scored in secondhand stores long before it was even a thing in high fashion, with his clothes coming twisted and folded around the body, secured with safety pins and sometimes barely even sewn together, their outlandish, fabulously avant-garde shapes offering a silhouette just screaming to slay the red carpet.

He’s heading there with a brand that hasn‘t been revealed yet, and will obviously be kitted out in their clothes, but if we were going to get really out-of-the-box – and actually go pretty meta – I’d love to see him heading up the Met’s steps in the white archival Vaquera shirt that’s got his face plastered all over it. Taken from the brand’s AW18 collection, the whole offering paid homage to the label’s heroes – from Vivienne Westwood, to Miguel Adrover, to Walker himself, who has always inspired its designers.

Beyond that, I’m also hoping to see loads of young Black talent spotlighted this time around, and since I’m a bit biased, lots of British names at that – because Lord knows there’s loads to choose from. With Martine Rose, Jawara Alleyne, Feben, Tolu Coker, Nicholas Daley, Labrum, Grace Wales Bonner, and so many more at their disposal, let’s hope the celebs divert away from the usual go-to houses – or that said, go-to houses are using the opportunity to link-up and lift up rising Black talent themselves.

ELLIOT HOSTE, FASHION WRITER

In the book Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love – the appendage to an exhibition of the same name – André Leon Talley wrote that Patrick Kelly “lived to be the only Black fashion designer to turn Paris upside down, inside out, on its venerable fashion shoulders” – and that’s why he should be honoured at this year’s Met. Not only was Kelly the first Black designer to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale, French fashion’s governing body, but he was the first American full stop, and his legacy should be recognised on the night. With the carpet’s tailoring theme, however – and the fact that the exhibit is based on a very academic text – I fear that some guests might take things a little too seriously, and forget the importance of play when constructing a style identity. This is something Kelly never forgot, packing his collections with camp and whimsical ideas, while paying tribute to both his Blackness and queerness with a sense of humour. I’d love to see Keke Palmer (the funniest woman on Earth) in a playful look from Kelly’s AW98 show, the final collection before his AIDS-related death in 1990. Palmer in the above look, with four top hats stacked on her head, is the unserious take on tailoring I want to see.

ISOBEL VAN DYKE, LIFE & STYLE WRITER

I’d like to see someone resurrect Hood by Air. The brainchild of Shayne Oliver and Raul Lopez of Luar (another brand we’re hoping has a big presence on the carpet), at its peak, HBA was one of the most exciting, disruptive and radical brands on the fashion month schedule. It was a label that paved the way for a new generation of Black and queer designers, consistently challenging gender norms and supporting the trans community too – in 2020, Oliver released a capsule collection with all proceeds going to Black Trans Femmes in the Arts, the Emergency Release Fund, and Gays & Lesbians Living in a Transgender Society. In total, it raised £153,000. Whilst dandyism is inherently linked to queerness, it is also a defiance against societal limitations. The wardrobes of Black dandies became forms of resistance, just as Shayne Oliver’s HBA shows rejected traditional gender tropes and physically deconstructed tailoring. If we can’t bring back HBA for good, can we bring it back for one night?

MARIOS MYSTIDIS, HEAD OF FASHION, SOCIAL

From the gold-plated durags to the 40 kilos of blinged-out, trompe-l’œil coats, any look from Olivier Rousteing’s AW24 Balmain men’s collection would absolutely do it for me. The tailoring is razor-sharp, defined and bold, but it’s the extra twists that really take this collection to the next level. It’s the epitome of Black dandyism: unapologetic and dripping with the kind of confidence that demands to be seen.

ALEX PETERS, BEAUTY DIRECTOR

Black Dandyism came into full force during the Harlem Renaissance and because of this is often associated with American figures like Langston Hughes, W.E.B. Du Bois and Gladys Bentley. But as a cultural and style movement, Dandyism started out in 19th century Britain, so it would feel fitting to have a British designer like Ozwald Boateng represented on the famous steps of the Met this year.

Born in London in the late 60s to Ghanaian parents, Boateng established his eponymous label in 1989 before becoming the first British tailor to stage a show at Paris Fashion Week in 1994. Then in 2003 he became the first Black person to take the helm of a Parisian fashion house as the creative director at Givenchy Homme.

Growing up he was inspired by the suits his father wore, and when he was eight years old he received his first suit from his mother: a double-breasted suit in purple mohair. Colour has remained a huge motif in his work, often sending suits in yellows, greens, pinks and oranges down the runways and red carpets. The suit I would love to see on Monday is a red velvet one from Boateng’s AW22 collection which celebrated his personal history and the Black diaspora. The combination of the velvet jackets paired with the silky red shirts feels so sumptuously chic, while the string of pearls it was styled with adds the perfect touch of dandyism. The colour also feels quite papal which feels timely given that the conclave starts just days after the Met Gala.

MIRKO PEDONE, FASHION & MARKET EDITOR

If we could have chosen an imaginary look, I’d have gone for A$AP Rocky delving into Bottega Veneta’s archive and picking an insanely chic look from Edward Buchanan’s era as the maison’s first ready-to-wear designer. However, while this idea is probably just going to live in my head, on a more realistic but parallel note – thinking of talented Black designers at the helm of Italian brands – I will say I’d love to see Maximilian Davis shining at this year’s Met.

If we want to be literal on the idea of tailoring, none of his peers do it better than Max. And going back to A$AP, how amazing would it be to see him and wifey Rih (who’s historically shown support for young Brit designers) show up in one of Davis’s exquisite, sharp looks! I’d imagine a red carpet take on outfits from Ferragamo’s AW25 show, specifically look 65 for Rocky and look 66 for Rih, which was the ribboned fishnet dress that Mona Tougaard closed in. I’d also love to see a look from Davis’s namesake label Maximilian on someone like Steve Lacy (imagine him in tailored mini shorts from Fashion East SS22) however he’ll most likely just wear Saint Laurent.

HABI DIALLO, BRANDED CONTENT EDITOR

It’s hard for me to think about this year’s Met theme without considering what André Leon Talley would’ve thought and the moments he would be excited for. Aside from being the epitome of dandy, something I always admired about Talley was his dedication to truly studying fashion history. For that reason, if there’s one designer I would love to see shine this year, one designer I feel would just get it, that would be Tolu Coker. Not only has she mastered the art of superfine tailoring, to me she is also one of the designers who demonstrates a real knowledge of culture, and how fashion has impacted the way we view ourselves. Her references show she has studied her craft, and she knows it well. She has an ability to capture stories, feelings and different eras in her clothes.

One look that comes to mind is a tan, tailored and corseted pleated minidress from her AW25 collection, which Doechii wore to perform at the Grammy Museum. Recently, Janelle Monáe also wore a tailored green coat from Coker’s SS25 collection in the May issue of US Vogue, so it’s safe to assume we might see some Tolu looks on the red carpet. Her past collections have proved her strengths, so if no one’s been ringing her line for a custom look, it would be a hugely missed opportunity.

Since its inception in 1948, the Met Gala has been many things. An irreverent celebration of all things camp; an anarchic ode to punk’s couture chaos; an exploration of China’s influence on Western fashion; plus tributes to the likes of Jackie Kennedy, Diana Vreeland, Elsa Schiaparelli, Monsieur Dior, and Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. 2025, however, is the first time the Met Gala’s theme – and accompanying Costume Institute exhibit – has wholly focused on Black culture, specifically the role that style plays in forming Black identities across the Atlantic diaspora. With a focus on the figure of the Black dandy – and a ‘Tailored for you’ dress code – this year’s event is the chance for brands and guests to look further afield, enlisting the wealth of Black design talent the industry has to offer, or searching through the archives to give past Black designers their flowers. Though the looks may already be locked in, this is what Dazed’s editors and writers want to see happen at this year’s Met.

KACION MAYERS, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, PRINT

Forget the slick tailoring – I want the unexpected, a look that makes you double take. It’s the perfect opportunity to spotlight the Black women pushing menswear – Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, and Mowalola. Picture Timothée Chalamet in look five of Mowalola’s SS25 collection. Or Playboi Carti in that skin-tight, cherry red ‘Ebony’ tee.

Supporting young Black design talent is key. Kendrick Lamar in custom Martine Rose, as per. I’m also manifesting Erykah Badu or Lauryn Hill in a custom moment from CSM grad Francesca Lake. The same goes for André 3000 in an avant-garde Comme des Garçons look. I’m excited, and though I don’t know what to expect, I do know you can’t have fear and know style. To me, Black dandyism is about turning heads, being provocative and pushing boundaries. I hope this Met Gala lives up to that.

TED STANSFIELD, EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, DIGITAL

Dapper Dan is surely one of the most quintessential dandies. He has got such style, but is also kind of punk in the way that he bootlegs luxury brands. I think it’d be cool to see the two Tylers – Tyler, the Creator and Tyla – in looks from him; maybe Tyla could wear the look he made for Diane Dixon (the one Gucci got in trouble for copying at its 2018 Cruise show).

EMMA ELIZABETH DAVISON, FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR

Andre Walker is one of fashion’s most elusive figures, but also one of its most inspiring, and he absolutely deserves to be celebrated at the Met and beyond. Rising up in 90s NY, he was upcycling bits and pieces scored in secondhand stores long before it was even a thing in high fashion, with his clothes coming twisted and folded around the body, secured with safety pins and sometimes barely even sewn together, their outlandish, fabulously avant-garde shapes offering a silhouette just screaming to slay the red carpet.

He’s heading there with a brand that hasn‘t been revealed yet, and will obviously be kitted out in their clothes, but if we were going to get really out-of-the-box – and actually go pretty meta – I’d love to see him heading up the Met’s steps in the white archival Vaquera shirt that’s got his face plastered all over it. Taken from the brand’s AW18 collection, the whole offering paid homage to the label’s heroes – from Vivienne Westwood, to Miguel Adrover, to Walker himself, who has always inspired its designers.

Beyond that, I’m also hoping to see loads of young Black talent spotlighted this time around, and since I’m a bit biased, lots of British names at that – because Lord knows there’s loads to choose from. With Martine Rose, Jawara Alleyne, Feben, Tolu Coker, Nicholas Daley, Labrum, Grace Wales Bonner, and so many more at their disposal, let’s hope the celebs divert away from the usual go-to houses – or that said, go-to houses are using the opportunity to link-up and lift up rising Black talent themselves.

ELLIOT HOSTE, FASHION WRITER

In the book Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love – the appendage to an exhibition of the same name – André Leon Talley wrote that Patrick Kelly “lived to be the only Black fashion designer to turn Paris upside down, inside out, on its venerable fashion shoulders” – and that’s why he should be honoured at this year’s Met. Not only was Kelly the first Black designer to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale, French fashion’s governing body, but he was the first American full stop, and his legacy should be recognised on the night. With the carpet’s tailoring theme, however – and the fact that the exhibit is based on a very academic text – I fear that some guests might take things a little too seriously, and forget the importance of play when constructing a style identity. This is something Kelly never forgot, packing his collections with camp and whimsical ideas, while paying tribute to both his Blackness and queerness with a sense of humour. I’d love to see Keke Palmer (the funniest woman on Earth) in a playful look from Kelly’s AW98 show, the final collection before his AIDS-related death in 1990. Palmer in the above look, with four top hats stacked on her head, is the unserious take on tailoring I want to see.

ISOBEL VAN DYKE, LIFE & STYLE WRITER

I’d like to see someone resurrect Hood by Air. The brainchild of Shayne Oliver and Raul Lopez of Luar (another brand we’re hoping has a big presence on the carpet), at its peak, HBA was one of the most exciting, disruptive and radical brands on the fashion month schedule. It was a label that paved the way for a new generation of Black and queer designers, consistently challenging gender norms and supporting the trans community too – in 2020, Oliver released a capsule collection with all proceeds going to Black Trans Femmes in the Arts, the Emergency Release Fund, and Gays & Lesbians Living in a Transgender Society. In total, it raised £153,000. Whilst dandyism is inherently linked to queerness, it is also a defiance against societal limitations. The wardrobes of Black dandies became forms of resistance, just as Shayne Oliver’s HBA shows rejected traditional gender tropes and physically deconstructed tailoring. If we can’t bring back HBA for good, can we bring it back for one night?

MARIOS MYSTIDIS, HEAD OF FASHION, SOCIAL

From the gold-plated durags to the 40 kilos of blinged-out, trompe-l’œil coats, any look from Olivier Rousteing’s AW24 Balmain men’s collection would absolutely do it for me. The tailoring is razor-sharp, defined and bold, but it’s the extra twists that really take this collection to the next level. It’s the epitome of Black dandyism: unapologetic and dripping with the kind of confidence that demands to be seen.

ALEX PETERS, BEAUTY DIRECTOR

Black Dandyism came into full force during the Harlem Renaissance and because of this is often associated with American figures like Langston Hughes, W.E.B. Du Bois and Gladys Bentley. But as a cultural and style movement, Dandyism started out in 19th century Britain, so it would feel fitting to have a British designer like Ozwald Boateng represented on the famous steps of the Met this year.

Born in London in the late 60s to Ghanaian parents, Boateng established his eponymous label in 1989 before becoming the first British tailor to stage a show at Paris Fashion Week in 1994. Then in 2003 he became the first Black person to take the helm of a Parisian fashion house as the creative director at Givenchy Homme.

Growing up he was inspired by the suits his father wore, and when he was eight years old he received his first suit from his mother: a double-breasted suit in purple mohair. Colour has remained a huge motif in his work, often sending suits in yellows, greens, pinks and oranges down the runways and red carpets. The suit I would love to see on Monday is a red velvet one from Boateng’s AW22 collection which celebrated his personal history and the Black diaspora. The combination of the velvet jackets paired with the silky red shirts feels so sumptuously chic, while the string of pearls it was styled with adds the perfect touch of dandyism. The colour also feels quite papal which feels timely given that the conclave starts just days after the Met Gala.

MIRKO PEDONE, FASHION & MARKET EDITOR

If we could have chosen an imaginary look, I’d have gone for A$AP Rocky delving into Bottega Veneta’s archive and picking an insanely chic look from Edward Buchanan’s era as the maison’s first ready-to-wear designer. However, while this idea is probably just going to live in my head, on a more realistic but parallel note – thinking of talented Black designers at the helm of Italian brands – I will say I’d love to see Maximilian Davis shining at this year’s Met.

If we want to be literal on the idea of tailoring, none of his peers do it better than Max. And going back to A$AP, how amazing would it be to see him and wifey Rih (who’s historically shown support for young Brit designers) show up in one of Davis’s exquisite, sharp looks! I’d imagine a red carpet take on outfits from Ferragamo’s AW25 show, specifically look 65 for Rocky and look 66 for Rih, which was the ribboned fishnet dress that Mona Tougaard closed in. I’d also love to see a look from Davis’s namesake label Maximilian on someone like Steve Lacy (imagine him in tailored mini shorts from Fashion East SS22) however he’ll most likely just wear Saint Laurent.

HABI DIALLO, BRANDED CONTENT EDITOR

It’s hard for me to think about this year’s Met theme without considering what André Leon Talley would’ve thought and the moments he would be excited for. Aside from being the epitome of dandy, something I always admired about Talley was his dedication to truly studying fashion history. For that reason, if there’s one designer I would love to see shine this year, one designer I feel would just get it, that would be Tolu Coker. Not only has she mastered the art of superfine tailoring, to me she is also one of the designers who demonstrates a real knowledge of culture, and how fashion has impacted the way we view ourselves. Her references show she has studied her craft, and she knows it well. She has an ability to capture stories, feelings and different eras in her clothes.

One look that comes to mind is a tan, tailored and corseted pleated minidress from her AW25 collection, which Doechii wore to perform at the Grammy Museum. Recently, Janelle Monáe also wore a tailored green coat from Coker’s SS25 collection in the May issue of US Vogue, so it’s safe to assume we might see some Tolu looks on the red carpet. Her past collections have proved her strengths, so if no one’s been ringing her line for a custom look, it would be a hugely missed opportunity.