Rewrite
Sunset at the City Hall pier.
photography. Didrick Stenersen for VisitOSLO
visitoslo.com
When Norwegian cuisine comes to mind, seafood is often the first thought. With its vast coastline, abundant access to the ocean, and numerous fishing communities, Norway stands as the world’s leading seafood exporter. Conversely, the country’s rugged, mountainous landscape, limited farmland, and long, harsh winters mean that agriculture operates on a smaller scale. As a result, traditional preservation methods such as smoking, fermenting, and foraging — seen in delicacies like smoked salmon and pickled herring — date back to Viking times. These flavors are often accompanied by a shot of aquavit, a vodka-like spirit infused with dill, caraway, and other botanicals.
However, it would be a misconception to think Norwegian cuisine is limited to seafood, just as it would be inaccurate to assume the British diet consists only of fish and chips or that Americans eat nothing but burgers and fries. Oslo, in particular, boasts a vibrant and ever-evolving food scene, offering everything from street food to high-end dining, with a rich blend of international influences.
For the first edition of Schön! alive, we spend a whirlwind 72 hours eating our way around the Norwegian capital.
Fiskeriet.
Youngstorget 2b, Oslo, Norway
fiskeriet.net
photography. Anne Andersen
In the heart of downtown Oslo, at Youngstorget Square, lies a spot that has housed a fishmonger since the 1930s. In 2010, Fiskeriet took over, committed to offering high-quality, sustainable seafood — both as a specialty shop and a laid-back eatery. The knowledgeable and passionate staff are eager to help, whether guiding customers through fresh seafood selections at the counter or recommending dishes from the menu, which is intentionally simple and seasonal. That said, a few staples remain constant: the rich, flavourful Creamy Fish Soup (made with the catch of the day) and the crispy, perfectly executed Fish and Chips — both of which we sampled and highly recommend. Fresh prawns, oysters, and mussels are also always on hand. Portions are generous, and for those staying in Oslo a little longer, there’s the option to take home some of that freshness and flavour.
Ludo.
Vibes Gate 11a
Sørengkaia 138, Oslo, Norway
restaurantludo.no
photography. Haakon Hoseth
Coucou.
Henrik Ibsens gate 60c, Oslo, Norway
brasseriecoucou.no
photography. Haakon Hoseth
opposite
Hedone.
Skovveien 15 Oslo, Norway
hedone.no
photography. Haakon Hoseth
Restaurant Ludo proudly claims to serve the best stone-baked pizzas in Oslo. The menu features Italian staples like Capricciosa and Calzone, as well as the 2024 award-winning ‘Best Nordic Margherita,’ which elevates the classic with basil-infused dough, tomato confit, and crispy fried basil. In addition to traditional options, Ludo offers a ‘modern pizza’ selection, including a decadent carbonara-inspired pie topped with truffle cream. For those seeking Nordic fusion flavors, unique creations such as Smoked Halibut with béchamel, Grana Padano, lemon, and parsley, or King Crab with tomatoes, mozzarella, fennel, tarragon, and chili oil provide an inventive twist on the classic dish.
Restaurant Ludo has two locations — one in Vibes Gate and another in Sørenga — but if you’re looking to explore more, you can also visit its sister restaurants under the Folket restaurant group, co-founded by former Fat Duck chef James Maxwell-Stewart. For classic French cuisine, Brasserie Coucou offers dishes like Moules Frites cooked with Pernod, garlic, and herbs, or Confit of Duck served with kale, baby carrots, cherries, and mushroom foam. Hedone, on the other hand, specializes in modern Asian flavors, while Cru reflects Maxwell-Stewart’s British roots, blending influences from French and Nordic cuisine. At Cru, you’ll find a relaxed wine bar downstairs serving snacks and an informal à la carte menu, while upstairs, the fine dining restaurant offers seasonal five-course tasting menus. Expect elegant dishes such as Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with champagne or a refined take on brunch with Langoustine Benedict.
Paradis Gelateria.
Tjuvholmen kiosk,
Strandpromenaden 2, Oslo, Norway
iskrembar.no
photography. Didrick Stenersen
for VisitOSLO
Alfonso Pepe and Haron Ascanio Cazzaniga first crossed paths in an Oslo ice cream shop, both in search of an authentic taste of home. Their shared passion led to the opening of Paradis Gelateria in 2012, bringing traditional Italian gelato, sorbet, cakes, and coffee to the city. Now boasting multiple locations near Oslo’s main attractions, Paradis is known for its rich, creamy gelato made fresh daily using time-honored Italian techniques. There are no artificial colorants — each vibrant flavor comes straight from natural ingredients. While key elements like Sorrento lemons and Piedmont hazelnuts are imported from Italy, the gelateria also takes advantage of Norway’s high-quality milk and seasonal fruits. Vegan, lactose-free, and gluten-free options ensure there’s something for everyone.
Just a short walk from Fiskeriet, an understated, barely branded shopfront hides one of Oslo’s best-kept secrets — Himkok, currently ranked No. 10 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. More than just a speakeasy, this award-winning bar has played a key role in revitalizing Norway’s cocktail scene. Behind its modest entrance lies a multi-level space featuring an in-house distillery producing aquavit, gin, and vodka, alongside a laboratory, cider bar, expansive outdoor terrace, and even a barber shop. One of its standout innovations is cocktails on tap — something owner Erk Potur insists isn’t a shortcut, but a way to maintain impeccable quality and consistency.
The cocktail menu, which changes annually, highlights Nordic ingredients, seasonality, and sustainability, always pushing the boundaries of mixology. The latest theme, Beats & Sips, is a collaboration with Sony Music Norway, pairing signature drinks with curated playlists from top Norwegian artists. In true Himkok fashion, cocktails such as Sea Buckthorn, Thyme, and Quince celebrate a single ingredient, while Carrot Cake offers a creative spin on the classic dessert.
Himkok.
Storgata 27, Oslo, Norway
himkok.no
photography. Anne Andersen
The Munch Museum.
Edvard Munchs Plass 1, Oslo, Norway
munchmuseet.no
photography. Ivar Kvaal
image. Courtesy of The Munch Museum/VisitOSLO
No visit to Oslo is complete without a boat trip on the fjord, offering breathtaking views of the city’s harbor, the striking Opera House, and the modern Munch Museum. Most tours take you beyond the city, gliding past scenic shorelines, tranquil bays, and charming islets dotted with summer homes, bathhouses, and lighthouses, all set against the dramatic backdrop of distant mountains. Some cruises also include a stop at the Bygdøy peninsula, home to several of Oslo’s most renowned museums.
With over 70 years of experience, Båtservice Sightseeing and its historic wooden sailing ships have become an iconic part of Oslo’s waterfront. Tours run year-round, but summer offers a special treat — a three-hour evening cruise featuring a traditional Norwegian shrimp buffet, where fresh shrimp and prawns are served with bread, butter, mayonnaise, and lemon. For a more atmospheric experience, some evening cruises include live jazz and blues. While blankets are provided, the fjord air can be brisk, so dressing warmly is recommended. For contemporary art lovers, the Astrup Fearnley Museet is a must-visit, showcasing one of Europe’s most significant private collections alongside rotating temporary exhibitions.
Within the museum complex, VentiVenti offers a dining experience that fuses Nordic ingredients with the Italian maritime influences of its Sicilian Head Chef, Giuseppe Maccarrone, creating a unique culinary blend in a stunning waterside setting. At first glance, the menu may seem familiar — pizzas, pastas, tiramisu, and affogato, as expected. But don’t be fooled. This is elevated Italian cuisine, where seasonal ingredients and fresh flavors take center stage.
Take the winter menu, for example: the Chef’s Bruschetta transforms a classic starter with burrata stuffed with shrimp, cherry tomatoes, and anchovies. The Agnello del Bronte features lamb chops coated in a pistachio and mustard crust, pan-fried to perfection, and served with crispy sweet potato, fried potatoes, and a rich port wine sauce. And for dessert? Sapori dell’Etna, a decadent sponge cake soaked in Strega saffron liqueur, layered with ricotta, candied fruit, crumbled cannolo biscuits, and a hint of lemon zest. Tempted yet? Beyond the menu, the setting is just as impressive. The outdoor terrace offers stunning views of the fjord and the Tjuvholmen Sculpture Park, while inside, floor-to-ceiling windows ensure diners can soak in the scenery no matter the season.
For another quintessentially Norwegian experience, head to SALT, a venue unlike any other. More than just a sauna spot — though it does boast 12 of them — SALT is a cultural hub. You can book a private sauna for four to six people, join a larger communal session accommodating up to 100, and cool off in freshwater pools, outdoor showers, or, for the bold, a dip in the fjord. But SALT is more than relaxation; it’s an ever-evolving nomadic art project. Year-round, its stages host a dynamic mix of concerts, festivals, comedy shows, theater, drag performances, and literary readings. The venue also features multiple bars, an expansive outdoor seating area with space for over 800 guests, and a rotating selection of street food stalls serving flavors from around the world. For a more intimate experience, the cozy Naustet café offers coffee and cocktails, or you can book a private outdoor space with a fire pit, warm blankets, and furs for a unique waterside barbecue.
VentiVenti.
Strandpromenaden 2, Oslo, Norway
ventiventi.no
image. Courtesy of VentiVenti
opposite
SALT.
Langkaia 1, Oslo, Norway
salted.no
photography. Magne Håheim
image. Courtesy of SALT/VisitOSLO
Grand Hotel.
Karl Johans gt. 31 Oslo, Norway
grand.no
photography. Didrick Stenersen for VisitOSLO
At the corner of Karl Johan and Rosenkrantz streets stands the Grande Dame of Oslo’s hotels, steeped in over 150 years of rich history. Originally built as a private residence around 1840, the building was transformed into the Grand Hotel Oslo in 1874 by confectioner Julius Fritzner, back when the city was still known as Kristiana. The first section to open was the Grand Café, which quickly became a favorite gathering spot for bohemians and intellectuals. Throughout the 1890s, renowned playwright Henrik Ibsen could be seen walking to the café twice a day, where an armchair was permanently reserved for him — his second home, in many ways.
In 1886, the hotel unveiled what was then Kristiana’s most spectacular ballroom, where guests dined to the sounds of the city’s finest orchestras beneath opulent ceilings and murals painted by scenic artist Wilhelm Krogh, a close friend of Fritzner. Over the years, the ballroom hosted lavish carnivals, grand banquets, and soirées attended by academics, diplomats, and royalty, cementing its status as the city’s social epicenter.
While the hotel has undergone extensive renovations, its historic charm has been carefully preserved. Decorative ceilings and murals have been restored or recreated, and the original Thonet chairs have been meticulously refurbished. Yet, modernity is embraced in the open kitchen, where chefs craft dishes using Nordic ingredients with international flair. Expect refined creations such as Halibut Ceviche with mint pesto, grapefruit, fresh peas, and pine nuts, or Beets with charred leek mayonnaise, crushed pistachios, and Västerbotten cheese.
For those seeking relaxation, the award-winning Artesia Spa offers a wellness sanctuary with a heated pool, steam bath, sauna, infrared cabin, and a range of rejuvenating treatments. Do note that, as with most hotel spas in Oslo, advance booking is required, and access incurs a fee for both non-residents and hotel guests.
Hotel Continental.
The Leading Hotels of the World.
Stortingsgata 24/26, Oslo , Norway
hotelcontinental.no
images. Courtesy of Hotel Continental
Another of Oslo’s historic gems, Hotel Continental, has been a symbol of elegance since its opening in 1900. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, this five-star establishment began with just 30 rooms and a restaurant and has remained in the same family for four generations. In 2018, it underwent its most ambitious renovation yet, blending contemporary design and art with antique furnishings across its communal spaces and 151 individually designed rooms and suites.
Among its dining options, the most iconic is Theatercaféen. Situated just opposite the National Theatre, it quickly became a hub for actors and artists in the early 20th century. Even today, its celebrity legacy endures — upon entering, guests are met with a wall of signed photographs from famous patrons, including Bono, Yoko Ono, Meryl Streep, and Elton John. Inside, the bustling dining room boasts vaulted ceilings, large arched windows, and an atmosphere brimming with history. While the café received a modern (and regrettable) facelift in 1940, third-generation owner Ellen Brochmann lovingly restored its original Art Nouveau splendor in 1971.
The bar is an excellent spot for solo diners or a pre-dinner cocktail, and it’s hard to resist the oysters or the Antonius Oscietra caviar, served with waffles, red onions, and sour cream. The seasonal lunch and dinner menus showcase refined Nordic flavors, with recent highlights including Rack of Reindeer with mushroom-celery root purée, lingonberries, and porcini sauce; Pan-fried Wild Halibut with flower sprouts, fennel, and lobster bisque; and a creative Beetroot Tartare with chèvre from Haukeli, hazelnuts, and tarragon.
The Thief.
Landgangen 1, Oslo, Norway
thethief.com
image. Courtesy of The Thief
If you’ve already taken a boat tour, you might be familiar with the transformed district of Tjuvholmen (Thief Island), once a haven for smugglers and scoundrels but now a hotspot for art, design, and luxury. At the heart of this transformation is The Thief, an ultra-modern boutique hotel offering Nordic luxury with a cosmopolitan edge. From the moment you arrive, it’s clear that art is at the core of The Thief’s identity. Outside, Antony Gormley’s sculpture Draw sets the tone, while the lobby welcomes guests with Richard Prince’s Untitled (Cowboy). Even the restaurant houses a Damien Hirst ‘Spin’ painting, complementing the sleek, moody interiors and designer furnishings. The rooms match this aesthetic, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows, balconies, Geneva sound systems, and in deluxe rooms and suites, stunning fjord views.
While the hotel is enticing enough to keep you indoors, its prime location next to the Astrup Fearnley Museum, Tjuvholmen Sculpture Park, and the lively Aker Brygge district makes it worth stepping outside. That said, before venturing out, a meal at the hotel’s signature restaurant, The Thief, is a must. Open for brunch, lunch, and dinner, the restaurant stays true to Norwegian flavors while embracing international influences. Expect refined dishes like Aquavit-Cured Salmon with pine shots or The Thief Tartare, a bold take on venison, served with sourdough, egg cream, capers, mustard, shallots, and Macallan 18 Y.O.
The desserts at The Thief are equally captivating. For instance, their White Chocolate Mousse, spiced with Szechuan pepper and orange, is paired with cherry coulis and hot wine gel, offering a delightful and unexpected twist. Another standout is their Nordic organic breakfast buffet, one of the finest we’ve encountered. It offers a wide range of delicious options, but be sure to sample Brunost (brown cheese), a Norwegian national treasure. Made from whey, this cheese owes its distinctive color and sweetness to the caramelization of milk sugars.
While much of central Oslo is easily walkable, if you’re not keen on strolling, it’s best to skip the taxis (due to parking restrictions and one-way systems that can make them inefficient) and instead make use of the Oslo public transport network. The Oslo Pass is a fantastic option, offering unlimited travel on trams, subways, buses, and public ferries. Plus, it grants free entry to 30 museums and attractions, including Astrup Fearnley and the MUNCH Museum, along with discounts on other experiences like the Båtservice boat tours.
Båtservice Sightseeing.
Rådhusbrygge 3, Oslo, Norway
photography. Didrick Stenersen for VisitOSLO
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words. Huma Humayun
special thanks. Mathilde Rübberdt @ VisitOSLO + Stein-Inge Århus @ Astrup Fearnley Museet
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Sunset at the City Hall pier.
photography. Didrick Stenersen for VisitOSLO
visitoslo.com
When Norwegian cuisine comes to mind, seafood is often the first thought. With its vast coastline, abundant access to the ocean, and numerous fishing communities, Norway stands as the world’s leading seafood exporter. Conversely, the country’s rugged, mountainous landscape, limited farmland, and long, harsh winters mean that agriculture operates on a smaller scale. As a result, traditional preservation methods such as smoking, fermenting, and foraging — seen in delicacies like smoked salmon and pickled herring — date back to Viking times. These flavors are often accompanied by a shot of aquavit, a vodka-like spirit infused with dill, caraway, and other botanicals.
However, it would be a misconception to think Norwegian cuisine is limited to seafood, just as it would be inaccurate to assume the British diet consists only of fish and chips or that Americans eat nothing but burgers and fries. Oslo, in particular, boasts a vibrant and ever-evolving food scene, offering everything from street food to high-end dining, with a rich blend of international influences.
For the first edition of Schön! alive, we spend a whirlwind 72 hours eating our way around the Norwegian capital.
Fiskeriet.
Youngstorget 2b, Oslo, Norway
fiskeriet.net
photography. Anne Andersen
In the heart of downtown Oslo, at Youngstorget Square, lies a spot that has housed a fishmonger since the 1930s. In 2010, Fiskeriet took over, committed to offering high-quality, sustainable seafood — both as a specialty shop and a laid-back eatery. The knowledgeable and passionate staff are eager to help, whether guiding customers through fresh seafood selections at the counter or recommending dishes from the menu, which is intentionally simple and seasonal. That said, a few staples remain constant: the rich, flavourful Creamy Fish Soup (made with the catch of the day) and the crispy, perfectly executed Fish and Chips — both of which we sampled and highly recommend. Fresh prawns, oysters, and mussels are also always on hand. Portions are generous, and for those staying in Oslo a little longer, there’s the option to take home some of that freshness and flavour.
Ludo.
Vibes Gate 11a
Sørengkaia 138, Oslo, Norway
restaurantludo.no
photography. Haakon Hoseth
Coucou.
Henrik Ibsens gate 60c, Oslo, Norway
brasseriecoucou.no
photography. Haakon Hoseth
opposite
Hedone.
Skovveien 15 Oslo, Norway
hedone.no
photography. Haakon Hoseth
Restaurant Ludo proudly claims to serve the best stone-baked pizzas in Oslo. The menu features Italian staples like Capricciosa and Calzone, as well as the 2024 award-winning ‘Best Nordic Margherita,’ which elevates the classic with basil-infused dough, tomato confit, and crispy fried basil. In addition to traditional options, Ludo offers a ‘modern pizza’ selection, including a decadent carbonara-inspired pie topped with truffle cream. For those seeking Nordic fusion flavors, unique creations such as Smoked Halibut with béchamel, Grana Padano, lemon, and parsley, or King Crab with tomatoes, mozzarella, fennel, tarragon, and chili oil provide an inventive twist on the classic dish.
Restaurant Ludo has two locations — one in Vibes Gate and another in Sørenga — but if you’re looking to explore more, you can also visit its sister restaurants under the Folket restaurant group, co-founded by former Fat Duck chef James Maxwell-Stewart. For classic French cuisine, Brasserie Coucou offers dishes like Moules Frites cooked with Pernod, garlic, and herbs, or Confit of Duck served with kale, baby carrots, cherries, and mushroom foam. Hedone, on the other hand, specializes in modern Asian flavors, while Cru reflects Maxwell-Stewart’s British roots, blending influences from French and Nordic cuisine. At Cru, you’ll find a relaxed wine bar downstairs serving snacks and an informal à la carte menu, while upstairs, the fine dining restaurant offers seasonal five-course tasting menus. Expect elegant dishes such as Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with champagne or a refined take on brunch with Langoustine Benedict.
Paradis Gelateria.
Tjuvholmen kiosk,
Strandpromenaden 2, Oslo, Norway
iskrembar.no
photography. Didrick Stenersen
for VisitOSLO
Alfonso Pepe and Haron Ascanio Cazzaniga first crossed paths in an Oslo ice cream shop, both in search of an authentic taste of home. Their shared passion led to the opening of Paradis Gelateria in 2012, bringing traditional Italian gelato, sorbet, cakes, and coffee to the city. Now boasting multiple locations near Oslo’s main attractions, Paradis is known for its rich, creamy gelato made fresh daily using time-honored Italian techniques. There are no artificial colorants — each vibrant flavor comes straight from natural ingredients. While key elements like Sorrento lemons and Piedmont hazelnuts are imported from Italy, the gelateria also takes advantage of Norway’s high-quality milk and seasonal fruits. Vegan, lactose-free, and gluten-free options ensure there’s something for everyone.
Just a short walk from Fiskeriet, an understated, barely branded shopfront hides one of Oslo’s best-kept secrets — Himkok, currently ranked No. 10 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. More than just a speakeasy, this award-winning bar has played a key role in revitalizing Norway’s cocktail scene. Behind its modest entrance lies a multi-level space featuring an in-house distillery producing aquavit, gin, and vodka, alongside a laboratory, cider bar, expansive outdoor terrace, and even a barber shop. One of its standout innovations is cocktails on tap — something owner Erk Potur insists isn’t a shortcut, but a way to maintain impeccable quality and consistency.
The cocktail menu, which changes annually, highlights Nordic ingredients, seasonality, and sustainability, always pushing the boundaries of mixology. The latest theme, Beats & Sips, is a collaboration with Sony Music Norway, pairing signature drinks with curated playlists from top Norwegian artists. In true Himkok fashion, cocktails such as Sea Buckthorn, Thyme, and Quince celebrate a single ingredient, while Carrot Cake offers a creative spin on the classic dessert.
Himkok.
Storgata 27, Oslo, Norway
himkok.no
photography. Anne Andersen
The Munch Museum.
Edvard Munchs Plass 1, Oslo, Norway
munchmuseet.no
photography. Ivar Kvaal
image. Courtesy of The Munch Museum/VisitOSLO
No visit to Oslo is complete without a boat trip on the fjord, offering breathtaking views of the city’s harbor, the striking Opera House, and the modern Munch Museum. Most tours take you beyond the city, gliding past scenic shorelines, tranquil bays, and charming islets dotted with summer homes, bathhouses, and lighthouses, all set against the dramatic backdrop of distant mountains. Some cruises also include a stop at the Bygdøy peninsula, home to several of Oslo’s most renowned museums.
With over 70 years of experience, Båtservice Sightseeing and its historic wooden sailing ships have become an iconic part of Oslo’s waterfront. Tours run year-round, but summer offers a special treat — a three-hour evening cruise featuring a traditional Norwegian shrimp buffet, where fresh shrimp and prawns are served with bread, butter, mayonnaise, and lemon. For a more atmospheric experience, some evening cruises include live jazz and blues. While blankets are provided, the fjord air can be brisk, so dressing warmly is recommended. For contemporary art lovers, the Astrup Fearnley Museet is a must-visit, showcasing one of Europe’s most significant private collections alongside rotating temporary exhibitions.
Within the museum complex, VentiVenti offers a dining experience that fuses Nordic ingredients with the Italian maritime influences of its Sicilian Head Chef, Giuseppe Maccarrone, creating a unique culinary blend in a stunning waterside setting. At first glance, the menu may seem familiar — pizzas, pastas, tiramisu, and affogato, as expected. But don’t be fooled. This is elevated Italian cuisine, where seasonal ingredients and fresh flavors take center stage.
Take the winter menu, for example: the Chef’s Bruschetta transforms a classic starter with burrata stuffed with shrimp, cherry tomatoes, and anchovies. The Agnello del Bronte features lamb chops coated in a pistachio and mustard crust, pan-fried to perfection, and served with crispy sweet potato, fried potatoes, and a rich port wine sauce. And for dessert? Sapori dell’Etna, a decadent sponge cake soaked in Strega saffron liqueur, layered with ricotta, candied fruit, crumbled cannolo biscuits, and a hint of lemon zest. Tempted yet? Beyond the menu, the setting is just as impressive. The outdoor terrace offers stunning views of the fjord and the Tjuvholmen Sculpture Park, while inside, floor-to-ceiling windows ensure diners can soak in the scenery no matter the season.
For another quintessentially Norwegian experience, head to SALT, a venue unlike any other. More than just a sauna spot — though it does boast 12 of them — SALT is a cultural hub. You can book a private sauna for four to six people, join a larger communal session accommodating up to 100, and cool off in freshwater pools, outdoor showers, or, for the bold, a dip in the fjord. But SALT is more than relaxation; it’s an ever-evolving nomadic art project. Year-round, its stages host a dynamic mix of concerts, festivals, comedy shows, theater, drag performances, and literary readings. The venue also features multiple bars, an expansive outdoor seating area with space for over 800 guests, and a rotating selection of street food stalls serving flavors from around the world. For a more intimate experience, the cozy Naustet café offers coffee and cocktails, or you can book a private outdoor space with a fire pit, warm blankets, and furs for a unique waterside barbecue.
VentiVenti.
Strandpromenaden 2, Oslo, Norway
ventiventi.no
image. Courtesy of VentiVenti
opposite
SALT.
Langkaia 1, Oslo, Norway
salted.no
photography. Magne Håheim
image. Courtesy of SALT/VisitOSLO
Grand Hotel.
Karl Johans gt. 31 Oslo, Norway
grand.no
photography. Didrick Stenersen for VisitOSLO
At the corner of Karl Johan and Rosenkrantz streets stands the Grande Dame of Oslo’s hotels, steeped in over 150 years of rich history. Originally built as a private residence around 1840, the building was transformed into the Grand Hotel Oslo in 1874 by confectioner Julius Fritzner, back when the city was still known as Kristiana. The first section to open was the Grand Café, which quickly became a favorite gathering spot for bohemians and intellectuals. Throughout the 1890s, renowned playwright Henrik Ibsen could be seen walking to the café twice a day, where an armchair was permanently reserved for him — his second home, in many ways.
In 1886, the hotel unveiled what was then Kristiana’s most spectacular ballroom, where guests dined to the sounds of the city’s finest orchestras beneath opulent ceilings and murals painted by scenic artist Wilhelm Krogh, a close friend of Fritzner. Over the years, the ballroom hosted lavish carnivals, grand banquets, and soirées attended by academics, diplomats, and royalty, cementing its status as the city’s social epicenter.
While the hotel has undergone extensive renovations, its historic charm has been carefully preserved. Decorative ceilings and murals have been restored or recreated, and the original Thonet chairs have been meticulously refurbished. Yet, modernity is embraced in the open kitchen, where chefs craft dishes using Nordic ingredients with international flair. Expect refined creations such as Halibut Ceviche with mint pesto, grapefruit, fresh peas, and pine nuts, or Beets with charred leek mayonnaise, crushed pistachios, and Västerbotten cheese.
For those seeking relaxation, the award-winning Artesia Spa offers a wellness sanctuary with a heated pool, steam bath, sauna, infrared cabin, and a range of rejuvenating treatments. Do note that, as with most hotel spas in Oslo, advance booking is required, and access incurs a fee for both non-residents and hotel guests.
Hotel Continental.
The Leading Hotels of the World.
Stortingsgata 24/26, Oslo , Norway
hotelcontinental.no
images. Courtesy of Hotel Continental
Another of Oslo’s historic gems, Hotel Continental, has been a symbol of elegance since its opening in 1900. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, this five-star establishment began with just 30 rooms and a restaurant and has remained in the same family for four generations. In 2018, it underwent its most ambitious renovation yet, blending contemporary design and art with antique furnishings across its communal spaces and 151 individually designed rooms and suites.
Among its dining options, the most iconic is Theatercaféen. Situated just opposite the National Theatre, it quickly became a hub for actors and artists in the early 20th century. Even today, its celebrity legacy endures — upon entering, guests are met with a wall of signed photographs from famous patrons, including Bono, Yoko Ono, Meryl Streep, and Elton John. Inside, the bustling dining room boasts vaulted ceilings, large arched windows, and an atmosphere brimming with history. While the café received a modern (and regrettable) facelift in 1940, third-generation owner Ellen Brochmann lovingly restored its original Art Nouveau splendor in 1971.
The bar is an excellent spot for solo diners or a pre-dinner cocktail, and it’s hard to resist the oysters or the Antonius Oscietra caviar, served with waffles, red onions, and sour cream. The seasonal lunch and dinner menus showcase refined Nordic flavors, with recent highlights including Rack of Reindeer with mushroom-celery root purée, lingonberries, and porcini sauce; Pan-fried Wild Halibut with flower sprouts, fennel, and lobster bisque; and a creative Beetroot Tartare with chèvre from Haukeli, hazelnuts, and tarragon.
The Thief.
Landgangen 1, Oslo, Norway
thethief.com
image. Courtesy of The Thief
If you’ve already taken a boat tour, you might be familiar with the transformed district of Tjuvholmen (Thief Island), once a haven for smugglers and scoundrels but now a hotspot for art, design, and luxury. At the heart of this transformation is The Thief, an ultra-modern boutique hotel offering Nordic luxury with a cosmopolitan edge. From the moment you arrive, it’s clear that art is at the core of The Thief’s identity. Outside, Antony Gormley’s sculpture Draw sets the tone, while the lobby welcomes guests with Richard Prince’s Untitled (Cowboy). Even the restaurant houses a Damien Hirst ‘Spin’ painting, complementing the sleek, moody interiors and designer furnishings. The rooms match this aesthetic, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows, balconies, Geneva sound systems, and in deluxe rooms and suites, stunning fjord views.
While the hotel is enticing enough to keep you indoors, its prime location next to the Astrup Fearnley Museum, Tjuvholmen Sculpture Park, and the lively Aker Brygge district makes it worth stepping outside. That said, before venturing out, a meal at the hotel’s signature restaurant, The Thief, is a must. Open for brunch, lunch, and dinner, the restaurant stays true to Norwegian flavors while embracing international influences. Expect refined dishes like Aquavit-Cured Salmon with pine shots or The Thief Tartare, a bold take on venison, served with sourdough, egg cream, capers, mustard, shallots, and Macallan 18 Y.O.
The desserts at The Thief are equally captivating. For instance, their White Chocolate Mousse, spiced with Szechuan pepper and orange, is paired with cherry coulis and hot wine gel, offering a delightful and unexpected twist. Another standout is their Nordic organic breakfast buffet, one of the finest we’ve encountered. It offers a wide range of delicious options, but be sure to sample Brunost (brown cheese), a Norwegian national treasure. Made from whey, this cheese owes its distinctive color and sweetness to the caramelization of milk sugars.
While much of central Oslo is easily walkable, if you’re not keen on strolling, it’s best to skip the taxis (due to parking restrictions and one-way systems that can make them inefficient) and instead make use of the Oslo public transport network. The Oslo Pass is a fantastic option, offering unlimited travel on trams, subways, buses, and public ferries. Plus, it grants free entry to 30 museums and attractions, including Astrup Fearnley and the MUNCH Museum, along with discounts on other experiences like the Båtservice boat tours.
Båtservice Sightseeing.
Rådhusbrygge 3, Oslo, Norway
photography. Didrick Stenersen for VisitOSLO
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words. Huma Humayun
special thanks. Mathilde Rübberdt @ VisitOSLO + Stein-Inge Århus @ Astrup Fearnley Museet
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