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This season, New York Fashion Week felt electric, with rising labels getting their moment, new creative directors finding their footing and something for everyone; whether you’re more Downtown or Uptown.
Don’t worry, New York Fashion Week is all alive and well. This season there were comebacks: Diane Von Furstenberg is back in the schedule with a new creative director, and Conner Ives is showing for the first time in his home country. Small designers showed that there isn’t anything quite as special as a handmade garment, with 6395 and Miss Claire Sullivan leading this group. And the big brands showed that commerciality can also exist alongside creativity, something Thom Browne knows well.
Here are the shows you might have missed:
Eckhaus Latta
Eckhaus Latta is having a moment. Once the indie-cool New York label, the brand is now a seriously considered proposition on the fashion week schedule, and this season’s show made a pretty convincing case for why. The collection felt like a breath of modern air among a set of shows that can sometimes veer towards the dated or repetitive, balancing genuinely desirable clothes with just enough weirdness to keep things interesting. There were wired skirts, minidresses of layered mesh that would create new colours, fishnet trousers for boys and a 27-piece collaboration with J.Crew, which followed the instant sell-out of their jumper collaboration last season. It’s another sign that Eckhaus Latta can go bigger and reach a mass market without losing the offbeat sensibility that got the brand here in the first place. If there’s one show on the New York schedule that left the audience with a reason to smile, it was this one.
Khaite
Catherine Holstein’s Khaite’s latest woman is looking a little different, departing from her usual sleekness. Aside from Kaia Gerber opening the show in a high-waisted leather skirt and bra, the rest of the Khaite army had a more romantic feel, dressed in embroidered lace, lingerie, pastels and sheer mousseline that looked like it could float. Inspired by Venice, the collection played with the meeting of old-world grandeur and modernity. Even the tiniest details had been considered, from the hand-finished stitching on Gerber’s bra to corsetry peeking through undone fastenings in cocktail dresses, or the undone hair on the models.
Calvin Klein Collection
At Calvin Klein, it seems Veronica Leoni has finally found her footing. After three seasons of ideas that could sometimes feel too referential to the brand’s famous underwear lines, or at times over-styled, the Italian designer has stripped things back to the essence of Calvin Klein: classic cuts, clean lines and clothes that one imagines would fit greatly on the body. With Rosalía, Teyana Taylor and Solange in attendance, Leoni proposed a wardrobe of high-waisted, straight-leg trousers, slim silhouettes, perforated leather coats and hints of American classics and flashes of colour inspired by modernist painter Georgia O’Keeffe. There was also something of Love Story’s CBK influence in the mix. This collection feels like the right foundation for Leoni to build from, giving her a clearer vocabulary to push, and innovate from in the seasons ahead.
6397
For their first show ever, the brand created between New Yorker-duo Stella Ishii and designer Lizzie Owen answered one question that had been in everyone’s minds for the past four months. How does one dress for the heatwave in the city, remaining cool while doing so? The answer contains multitudes. There is something for the woman dressing for the beach and the one dressing for the office, but they all have that cool New York City essence the duo do so well, in the optimistic colour palette they are known for. Here there are pieces you can wear over and over for years to come.
Conner Ives
Conner Ives’ debut in his home country during NYFW, fittingly titled “Across the Pond”, was a bit of a who’s who of faces. The so-called CI girls were all in attendance at the iconic Manhattan restaurant The Grill, including Londoners Iris Law, Osman Ahmed and Lila Moss.
The collection was a mix of high and low, with the menswear a particular highlight of the season. Men’s tailoring and suits were made in collaboration with Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes and modelled by the likes of Terrence O’Connor and Ives’ boyfriend, Max, worn with shirts in bright pinks and greens with popped collars and scarves as cummerbunds. There was, of course, a slogan tee, a continuation of his viral “Protect the Dolls” charitable T-shirt. This time, it said “Bring Back Shame” and was worn by actress Hari Nef. Alongside his signature upholstered and up-cycled pieces, the designer also introduced a watercolour print reminiscent of exotic fish scales, as well as renditions of matador costumes. There were also, as expected, spectacular gowns. All of which felt very CI girl. Conner Ives’ clothes have been endorsed by countless celebrities and proven perfect for an afterparty, not necessarily for those on the streets of East London or Brooklyn, but for those at a manor, private members’ club or leaving a gala.
Diane Von Furstenberg
There was something quite exciting about seeing Diane von Furstenberg back at New York Fashion Week, nearly a decade after the brand’s last show here. The woman, already an Icon, who made the wrap dress a global phenomenon was watching on as someone else took her house into its, needed, next chapter. Henry Zankov, the Russia-born, Brooklyn-based designer who spent time working at DVF in the 2010s before launching his own label, where his colourful, graphic knits have picked up a cult following, proposed a sexy and eclectic wardrobe for the working woman. In his first collection, the wrap dress was there, but so were twisted jerseys, mismatched patterns, and tailored trousers and jackets in bright colours. A great start for a brand loved by so many.
Lii
Fresh off winning the Karl Lagerfeld Prize in Paris, courtesy of LVMH, where Zane Lii presented his work to a judging panel including Marc Jacobs, Phoebe Philo, Nicolas Ghesquière and Jonathan Anderson, the 25-year-old designer has already proved exactly why he deserved the prize. For his 10th collection (!), his precise approach to construction came through in asymmetric tilted silhouettes, open sides and trains that connect with column dresses and considered with an almost child-like look, through scuba fabrics, colour blocking and playful cut-outs.
Altuzarra
The starting point for Joseph Altuzarra’s collection was Casa Susanna, a secret resort in the Catskill Mountains of New York that became a safe haven for transgender women and cross-dressing men during the 1950s and 60s. The influence of the era came through in biker jackets paired with crinolines and skirts, alongside power-shouldered blazers, delicate dresses and camisoles. The collection never felt overly considered; instead, there was a sense of freedom and ease to it, with shirts and dresses left undone and silhouettes that seemed to move with the wearer. That same feeling of freedom and safety that defined Casa Susanna seemed to run through the collection.
Proenza Schouler
For Rachel Scott’s second outing at New York favourite Proenza Schouler, the designer, who also showed through her own label Diotima this season, proposed a wardrobe for the intellectual woman who the brand has been for since its inception: one who can take her look from day to night without complying to any dressing rules. Shown at the former Barneys women’s store, the very place that first stocked Proenza Schouler back in the day, the collection felt rooted in the idea of a modern New York woman. Strong knits, rounded hips and body-tracing seams gave shape without feeling restrictive, while peplums, animal prints, velvet and asymmetrical draping brought a little more sensuality to the collection.
Tory Burch
Opulence and optimism could also be found at Tory Burch, giving a spin to her sports influenced wardrobe. This time the designer who’s recently earned a new following because of her freaky shoe designs, presented a collection at the Isamu Noguchi Sunken Garden, where classic silhouettes, cardigans, midi skirts, tailoring and utility jackets had a twist as they were embroidered and adorned with off-kilter details, and styled with feathered boas, layered necklaces and anklets.
Thom Browne
The grand finale to a busy week, of course, belonged to Thom Browne, whose eccentric and imaginative tailoring is a staple in the calendar. This time, the collection included a parade of bugs, inspired by the Pixar film “A Bug’s Life” in par with his Menswear show in Milan back in June, with a collection that became increasingly more conceptual: It started with nods to nature such as butterflies on a checkered blazer or bees embroidered on a skirt, that eventually unfolded into ladybug gowns and skirts made of a butterfly’s colourful wings, Thom Browne style.
in HTML format, including tags, to make it appealing and easy to read for Japanese-speaking readers aged 20 to 40 interested in fashion. Organize the content with appropriate headings and subheadings (h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h6), translating all text, including headings, into Japanese. Retain any existing
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This season, New York Fashion Week felt electric, with rising labels getting their moment, new creative directors finding their footing and something for everyone; whether you’re more Downtown or Uptown.
Don’t worry, New York Fashion Week is all alive and well. This season there were comebacks: Diane Von Furstenberg is back in the schedule with a new creative director, and Conner Ives is showing for the first time in his home country. Small designers showed that there isn’t anything quite as special as a handmade garment, with 6395 and Miss Claire Sullivan leading this group. And the big brands showed that commerciality can also exist alongside creativity, something Thom Browne knows well.
Here are the shows you might have missed:
Eckhaus Latta
Eckhaus Latta is having a moment. Once the indie-cool New York label, the brand is now a seriously considered proposition on the fashion week schedule, and this season’s show made a pretty convincing case for why. The collection felt like a breath of modern air among a set of shows that can sometimes veer towards the dated or repetitive, balancing genuinely desirable clothes with just enough weirdness to keep things interesting. There were wired skirts, minidresses of layered mesh that would create new colours, fishnet trousers for boys and a 27-piece collaboration with J.Crew, which followed the instant sell-out of their jumper collaboration last season. It’s another sign that Eckhaus Latta can go bigger and reach a mass market without losing the offbeat sensibility that got the brand here in the first place. If there’s one show on the New York schedule that left the audience with a reason to smile, it was this one.
Khaite
Catherine Holstein’s Khaite’s latest woman is looking a little different, departing from her usual sleekness. Aside from Kaia Gerber opening the show in a high-waisted leather skirt and bra, the rest of the Khaite army had a more romantic feel, dressed in embroidered lace, lingerie, pastels and sheer mousseline that looked like it could float. Inspired by Venice, the collection played with the meeting of old-world grandeur and modernity. Even the tiniest details had been considered, from the hand-finished stitching on Gerber’s bra to corsetry peeking through undone fastenings in cocktail dresses, or the undone hair on the models.
Calvin Klein Collection
At Calvin Klein, it seems Veronica Leoni has finally found her footing. After three seasons of ideas that could sometimes feel too referential to the brand’s famous underwear lines, or at times over-styled, the Italian designer has stripped things back to the essence of Calvin Klein: classic cuts, clean lines and clothes that one imagines would fit greatly on the body. With Rosalía, Teyana Taylor and Solange in attendance, Leoni proposed a wardrobe of high-waisted, straight-leg trousers, slim silhouettes, perforated leather coats and hints of American classics and flashes of colour inspired by modernist painter Georgia O’Keeffe. There was also something of Love Story’s CBK influence in the mix. This collection feels like the right foundation for Leoni to build from, giving her a clearer vocabulary to push, and innovate from in the seasons ahead.
6397
For their first show ever, the brand created between New Yorker-duo Stella Ishii and designer Lizzie Owen answered one question that had been in everyone’s minds for the past four months. How does one dress for the heatwave in the city, remaining cool while doing so? The answer contains multitudes. There is something for the woman dressing for the beach and the one dressing for the office, but they all have that cool New York City essence the duo do so well, in the optimistic colour palette they are known for. Here there are pieces you can wear over and over for years to come.
Conner Ives
Conner Ives’ debut in his home country during NYFW, fittingly titled “Across the Pond”, was a bit of a who’s who of faces. The so-called CI girls were all in attendance at the iconic Manhattan restaurant The Grill, including Londoners Iris Law, Osman Ahmed and Lila Moss.
The collection was a mix of high and low, with the menswear a particular highlight of the season. Men’s tailoring and suits were made in collaboration with Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes and modelled by the likes of Terrence O’Connor and Ives’ boyfriend, Max, worn with shirts in bright pinks and greens with popped collars and scarves as cummerbunds. There was, of course, a slogan tee, a continuation of his viral “Protect the Dolls” charitable T-shirt. This time, it said “Bring Back Shame” and was worn by actress Hari Nef. Alongside his signature upholstered and up-cycled pieces, the designer also introduced a watercolour print reminiscent of exotic fish scales, as well as renditions of matador costumes. There were also, as expected, spectacular gowns. All of which felt very CI girl. Conner Ives’ clothes have been endorsed by countless celebrities and proven perfect for an afterparty, not necessarily for those on the streets of East London or Brooklyn, but for those at a manor, private members’ club or leaving a gala.
Diane Von Furstenberg
There was something quite exciting about seeing Diane von Furstenberg back at New York Fashion Week, nearly a decade after the brand’s last show here. The woman, already an Icon, who made the wrap dress a global phenomenon was watching on as someone else took her house into its, needed, next chapter. Henry Zankov, the Russia-born, Brooklyn-based designer who spent time working at DVF in the 2010s before launching his own label, where his colourful, graphic knits have picked up a cult following, proposed a sexy and eclectic wardrobe for the working woman. In his first collection, the wrap dress was there, but so were twisted jerseys, mismatched patterns, and tailored trousers and jackets in bright colours. A great start for a brand loved by so many.
Lii
Fresh off winning the Karl Lagerfeld Prize in Paris, courtesy of LVMH, where Zane Lii presented his work to a judging panel including Marc Jacobs, Phoebe Philo, Nicolas Ghesquière and Jonathan Anderson, the 25-year-old designer has already proved exactly why he deserved the prize. For his 10th collection (!), his precise approach to construction came through in asymmetric tilted silhouettes, open sides and trains that connect with column dresses and considered with an almost child-like look, through scuba fabrics, colour blocking and playful cut-outs.
Altuzarra
The starting point for Joseph Altuzarra’s collection was Casa Susanna, a secret resort in the Catskill Mountains of New York that became a safe haven for transgender women and cross-dressing men during the 1950s and 60s. The influence of the era came through in biker jackets paired with crinolines and skirts, alongside power-shouldered blazers, delicate dresses and camisoles. The collection never felt overly considered; instead, there was a sense of freedom and ease to it, with shirts and dresses left undone and silhouettes that seemed to move with the wearer. That same feeling of freedom and safety that defined Casa Susanna seemed to run through the collection.
Proenza Schouler
For Rachel Scott’s second outing at New York favourite Proenza Schouler, the designer, who also showed through her own label Diotima this season, proposed a wardrobe for the intellectual woman who the brand has been for since its inception: one who can take her look from day to night without complying to any dressing rules. Shown at the former Barneys women’s store, the very place that first stocked Proenza Schouler back in the day, the collection felt rooted in the idea of a modern New York woman. Strong knits, rounded hips and body-tracing seams gave shape without feeling restrictive, while peplums, animal prints, velvet and asymmetrical draping brought a little more sensuality to the collection.
Tory Burch
Opulence and optimism could also be found at Tory Burch, giving a spin to her sports influenced wardrobe. This time the designer who’s recently earned a new following because of her freaky shoe designs, presented a collection at the Isamu Noguchi Sunken Garden, where classic silhouettes, cardigans, midi skirts, tailoring and utility jackets had a twist as they were embroidered and adorned with off-kilter details, and styled with feathered boas, layered necklaces and anklets.
Thom Browne
The grand finale to a busy week, of course, belonged to Thom Browne, whose eccentric and imaginative tailoring is a staple in the calendar. This time, the collection included a parade of bugs, inspired by the Pixar film “A Bug’s Life” in par with his Menswear show in Milan back in June, with a collection that became increasingly more conceptual: It started with nods to nature such as butterflies on a checkered blazer or bees embroidered on a skirt, that eventually unfolded into ladybug gowns and skirts made of a butterfly’s colourful wings, Thom Browne style.
and integrate them seamlessly into the new content without adding new tags. Ensure the new content is fashion-related, written entirely in Japanese, and approximately 1500 words. Conclude with a “結論” section and a well-formatted “よくある質問” section. Avoid including an introduction or a note explaining the process.
