SS26デザイナーデビュー全ガイド

Our tans have faded, there’s rain forecast for the next week, and the Jet2 holidays jingle feels like an ancient hymn. September is upon us, meaning back to school, work and reality. In fashion, it means the biggest, busiest month of the year is looming; next week, New York Fashion Week will mark the beginning of a mammoth SS26 fashion season.

The September/October ready-to-wear shows are always some of the most significant of the year, but there’s even more reason to tune in this time around. This season is set to be a historic one, with a multitude of designer debuts lined up, marking a new chapter for some of the world’s most famous luxury brands – Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga and Versace, to name a few.

Over at Venice Film Festival, the newly appointed designers have been teasing their upcoming collections, soft launching their work on the red carpet (see here), on the likes of Mia Goth, Julia Roberts and Ayo Edebiri. If Venice is the trailer, we’re due to get the full movie in just a couple of weeks. Before then, it’s high time we refreshed your memory – below, we take a look back on all the creative director dominoes of the past year, and round up all the designer debuts coming this SS26 season.

Less than two weeks from now, New York Fashion Week SS26 will be well underway, kicking off on September 11. The biggest debut in the big apple will take place on September 12, with Nicholas Aburn at Area. Back in February, it was announced that former creative director and brand co-founder Piotrek Panszczyk would be stepping down, with Aburn taking over as his replacement. Previously, the Maryland-born designer worked under Demna at Balenciaga, Alexander Wang and Tom Ford. He graduated from Central Saint Martins in the early 2010s, having studied for his MA under the legendary Louise Wilson. It’s yet to be announced what Panszczyk will do next.

After New York and London, all eyes will turn to Milan, where a handful of major debuts are set to take place. First up, on September 23, we’ll get the first glimpse of Demna’s vision for Gucci. We’re not entirely sure what to expect – he only exited Balenciaga in July and most Italian ateliers shut throughout August for summer, which means it’s unlikely to be a full show. That said, when Demna’s husband Loïk Gomez posted a mirror selfie on Instagram last month wearing archive Tom Ford Gucci pieces, rumours began to swirl that Demna may be taking us back to the 90s for his debut. Fuel was added to the flames when the post was swiftly removed.

At 10:30am the day after Demna’s Gucci debut, Italian designer Simone Bellotti will take the reins at Jil Sander. His appointment was announced in March, joining the German brand from Bally, where he had worked for less than two years. Before Bally, Bellotti had spent 16 years at Gucci, working under both Frida Giannini and Alessandro Michele. He replaces husband and wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier, who left the house in February. The couple’s next move is yet to be revealed.

Two days later, on September 26, Dario Vitale makes his debut at Versace with an “intimate event, honouring the past and envisioning the future,” according to an announcement from the brand released in July. Like Demna’s Gucci, this won’t be a full-scale show – plus, Vitale already teased his Versace vision a few days ago, spotted on Julia Roberts during the Venice Film Festival red carpet. The designer’s appointment followed the news that, after 27 years, Donatella would be stepping down from design duties, with her role at the company shifting to chief brand ambassador. Prior to Versace, Vitale spent 15 years working under Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu.

The following day, September 27, we’ll see the only female designer debut of the season. Louise Trotter will deliver her first show as creative director of Bottega Veneta, although she too premiered her work on the red carpet, dressing both Julianne Moore and Vicky Krieps at Cannes Film Festival back in May. Trotter joined the brand back in January, replacing Matthieu Blazy, who was announced as Chanel’s new creative director back in December 2024. Trotter joined the brand from Carven, where she was creative director for under two years, following a nine-year stint at Joseph.

Then, we hop over to Paris, where a new chapter at Mugler begins with Miguel Casto Freitas’ debut on October 2. When Castro Freitas was announced as the brand’s new head honcho back in March, it was refreshing for fashion to learn a new name for a change. The Portugese designer had previously been creative director of Sportmax, the tailoring-driven Italian label and Max Mara offshoot, and prior to that, had worked under John Galliano, Stefano Pilati, Alber Elbaz and Raf Simons. He replaces Casey Cadwallader, who worked as Mugler creative director for seven years and whose next move is yet unknown.

Next up, it’s the turn of former Proenza Schouler duo, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who will make their debut at Loewe on October 3. Like many of these announcements, the news broke back in March that the pair would be taking over from Jonathan Anderson, who stepped down from his role after 11 years to take the helm at Dior. McCollough and Hernandez assumed their role in early April and will be responsible for womenswear, menswear, leather goods and accessories. The new creative lead at Proenza Schouler remains a question mark.

On October 4, one of the most anticipated debuts of the season will take place – Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first collection for Balenciaga. After the shock announcement that Demna would be swapping Balenciaga for Gucci, fashion insiders were thrown into frenzy over who might replace him. Of course, since leaving Valentino in March 2024 (when he was replaced by Alessandro Michele), Piccioli had been out of a job and laying low. Safe to say expectations are high for his grand return.

What a year it’s been for Dutch designer Duran Lantink. His show (which sparked debate due to his use of silicone breasts) went viral earlier this spring, he won the Woolmark Prize in April, and a week later, was announced as the new creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier, On October 5, he will show his first collection for the brand, which puts an end to the previous JPG strategy of rotating designers. Before Lantink was announced, previous designer collaborations with the brand included Simone Rocha, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Shayne Oliver.

Without a doubt the biggest moment on 2025’s fashion calendar, on October 6, French-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy will make his debut at Chanel. Ten months on from the announcement of his appointment, expectations are high for the former Bottega Veneta designer. But did we already get our first glimpse of Blazy’s Chanel? Last week, Ayo Edebiri stepped out wearing custom Chanel on the Venice Film Festival red carpet, styled by Danielle Goldberg. The brand has not confirmed if this was Blazy’s work, but either way it’s whet our appetite. In December, Blazy will take the brand to New York, where he will present the Chanel Métiers d’Art 25/26 show. 

Our tans have faded, there’s rain forecast for the next week, and the Jet2 holidays jingle feels like an ancient hymn. September is upon us, meaning back to school, work and reality. In fashion, it means the biggest, busiest month of the year is looming; next week, New York Fashion Week will mark the beginning of a mammoth SS26 fashion season.

The September/October ready-to-wear shows are always some of the most significant of the year, but there’s even more reason to tune in this time around. This season is set to be a historic one, with a multitude of designer debuts lined up, marking a new chapter for some of the world’s most famous luxury brands – Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga and Versace, to name a few.

Over at Venice Film Festival, the newly appointed designers have been teasing their upcoming collections, soft launching their work on the red carpet (see here), on the likes of Mia Goth, Julia Roberts and Ayo Edebiri. If Venice is the trailer, we’re due to get the full movie in just a couple of weeks. Before then, it’s high time we refreshed your memory – below, we take a look back on all the creative director dominoes of the past year, and round up all the designer debuts coming this SS26 season.

Less than two weeks from now, New York Fashion Week SS26 will be well underway, kicking off on September 11. The biggest debut in the big apple will take place on September 12, with Nicholas Aburn at Area. Back in February, it was announced that former creative director and brand co-founder Piotrek Panszczyk would be stepping down, with Aburn taking over as his replacement. Previously, the Maryland-born designer worked under Demna at Balenciaga, Alexander Wang and Tom Ford. He graduated from Central Saint Martins in the early 2010s, having studied for his MA under the legendary Louise Wilson. It’s yet to be announced what Panszczyk will do next.

After New York and London, all eyes will turn to Milan, where a handful of major debuts are set to take place. First up, on September 23, we’ll get the first glimpse of Demna’s vision for Gucci. We’re not entirely sure what to expect – he only exited Balenciaga in July and most Italian ateliers shut throughout August for summer, which means it’s unlikely to be a full show. That said, when Demna’s husband Loïk Gomez posted a mirror selfie on Instagram last month wearing archive Tom Ford Gucci pieces, rumours began to swirl that Demna may be taking us back to the 90s for his debut. Fuel was added to the flames when the post was swiftly removed.

At 10:30am the day after Demna’s Gucci debut, Italian designer Simone Bellotti will take the reins at Jil Sander. His appointment was announced in March, joining the German brand from Bally, where he had worked for less than two years. Before Bally, Bellotti had spent 16 years at Gucci, working under both Frida Giannini and Alessandro Michele. He replaces husband and wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier, who left the house in February. The couple’s next move is yet to be revealed.

Two days later, on September 26, Dario Vitale makes his debut at Versace with an “intimate event, honouring the past and envisioning the future,” according to an announcement from the brand released in July. Like Demna’s Gucci, this won’t be a full-scale show – plus, Vitale already teased his Versace vision a few days ago, spotted on Julia Roberts during the Venice Film Festival red carpet. The designer’s appointment followed the news that, after 27 years, Donatella would be stepping down from design duties, with her role at the company shifting to chief brand ambassador. Prior to Versace, Vitale spent 15 years working under Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu.

The following day, September 27, we’ll see the only female designer debut of the season. Louise Trotter will deliver her first show as creative director of Bottega Veneta, although she too premiered her work on the red carpet, dressing both Julianne Moore and Vicky Krieps at Cannes Film Festival back in May. Trotter joined the brand back in January, replacing Matthieu Blazy, who was announced as Chanel’s new creative director back in December 2024. Trotter joined the brand from Carven, where she was creative director for under two years, following a nine-year stint at Joseph.

Then, we hop over to Paris, where a new chapter at Mugler begins with Miguel Casto Freitas’ debut on October 2. When Castro Freitas was announced as the brand’s new head honcho back in March, it was refreshing for fashion to learn a new name for a change. The Portugese designer had previously been creative director of Sportmax, the tailoring-driven Italian label and Max Mara offshoot, and prior to that, had worked under John Galliano, Stefano Pilati, Alber Elbaz and Raf Simons. He replaces Casey Cadwallader, who worked as Mugler creative director for seven years and whose next move is yet unknown.

Next up, it’s the turn of former Proenza Schouler duo, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who will make their debut at Loewe on October 3. Like many of these announcements, the news broke back in March that the pair would be taking over from Jonathan Anderson, who stepped down from his role after 11 years to take the helm at Dior. McCollough and Hernandez assumed their role in early April and will be responsible for womenswear, menswear, leather goods and accessories. The new creative lead at Proenza Schouler remains a question mark.

On October 4, one of the most anticipated debuts of the season will take place – Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first collection for Balenciaga. After the shock announcement that Demna would be swapping Balenciaga for Gucci, fashion insiders were thrown into frenzy over who might replace him. Of course, since leaving Valentino in March 2024 (when he was replaced by Alessandro Michele), Piccioli had been out of a job and laying low. Safe to say expectations are high for his grand return.

What a year it’s been for Dutch designer Duran Lantink. His show (which sparked debate due to his use of silicone breasts) went viral earlier this spring, he won the Woolmark Prize in April, and a week later, was announced as the new creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier, On October 5, he will show his first collection for the brand, which puts an end to the previous JPG strategy of rotating designers. Before Lantink was announced, previous designer collaborations with the brand included Simone Rocha, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Shayne Oliver.

Without a doubt the biggest moment on 2025’s fashion calendar, on October 6, French-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy will make his debut at Chanel. Ten months on from the announcement of his appointment, expectations are high for the former Bottega Veneta designer. But did we already get our first glimpse of Blazy’s Chanel? Last week, Ayo Edebiri stepped out wearing custom Chanel on the Venice Film Festival red carpet, styled by Danielle Goldberg. The brand has not confirmed if this was Blazy’s work, but either way it’s whet our appetite. In December, Blazy will take the brand to New York, where he will present the Chanel Métiers d’Art 25/26 show.