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Capturing the fashionable zeitgeist, there’s a new group of names-to-know in town, courtesy of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative.
Via @britishfashioncouncil
Like a ceremonial, guiding torch for the fash pack, The British Fashion Council’s annual NEWGEN incubator scheme was unveiled yesterday at the hallowed halls of 180 The Strand, revealing its roster of new designers – chock-full of talent and vigour – which it will be representing for the next year. Since the NEWGEN’s inception in 1993, the programme seeks to platform emerging designers with financial support, mentorship, training sessions, and the opportunity to showcase their work on the London Fashion Week calendar. More affectionately, though, it provides fashion-heads with a solid list of designers to watch, and with alumni including Alexander McQueen, Grace Wales Bonner, Bianca Saunders, and Jonathan Anderson, who are we to sway our eyes from the BFC’s wisdom? Proving itself as a formidable force for young creatives, the NEWGEN scheme paves the way for up-and-comers, as they transition from names-to-know, into names we know and love within the fashion industry.
Returning for another year, Aaron Esh, Charlie Constantinou, Johanna Parv, Karoline Vitto, Kazna Asker, and Tolu Coker will all be dusting off their sewing machines, ready for another invigorating LFW season. Along with the NEWGEN recipients, the BFC partners with the Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and Queen Elizabeth II award for British Design, which both highlight one exceptional talent respectively, as the Vogue Designer Fashion Fund awards 150,000 pounds to a designer as they grow their business, whilst the Queen Elizabeth II award recognises the importance of British cultural and sustainable design since the beginning of Queen Elizabeth II’s reign.
But that’s just the half of it, as a troop of new talent awaits, anxiously twiddling their thumbs, brimming with unabashed designs, ready to be showcased at the cornucopia of London Fashion Week. Chosen for ‘their creativity, strong design aesthetic and point of difference’, the BFC explained in a statement. There’s innovative knitwear, subversive tailoring, and enticing metalware, but as always, there’s a lot to be excited about within British fashion, and the Newgen award is an annual testament to this. These are the new talents being represented by the British Fashion Council this year, scroll down to find out more:
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund recipient: Conner Ives
You may have seen his viral ‘Protect the Dolls’ slogan tee on your favourite celebrity (think: Pedro Pascal, Troye Sivan, Addison Rae). Created by the New-Yorkian designer to raise funds for Trans Lifeline, the Conner Ives inception has been making waves within culture over the past year. Beating off his competition – Dilara Findikoglu, Di Petsa, Edeline Lee, and Talie Byre – Ives has become a hometown hero for London, ever since he graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2020. Protecting the dolls, one slogan tee at a time, Ives’ fashionable vernacular is punctuated by his affinity for nostalgia, deadstock fabrication, and opulent garment creation. He whisks us into a far off world in his collections, and now that he’s won this accolade, we can’t wait to see what he does next.
Queen Elizaebeth II recipient: Patrick McDowell
Taking home the Queen Elizabeth II award is Patrick McDowell, the Liverpool-born CSM graduate, who champions circular design techniques, as they craft limited-edition, made-to-order pieces in their whimsical design style. With clientele including Sarah Jessica Parker and Kiera Knightley, Mcdowell’s business focuses on a direct, one-to-one relationship with the consumer.
ALETTA
Ushering in weird and wonderful garment dimensions, Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham are the double act representing the brains behind ALETTA. Still in its infancy years of design ALETTA was founded in January of this year, after Coomes and Empringham met whilst studying on Central Saint Martins’ BA course. The team have styled Sienna Miller at the Met Gala, fusing their affinity for the surreal with functional silhouettes.
Ewusie
Joshua Ewusie represented one of eight in the Central Saint Martins 2024 MA course, and now his trajectory is sure to be filled with the buzz of London Fashion Week. Born in West London, Ewusie, a former intern for JW Anderson and Maximilian Davis, a BFC Chanel Scholarship recipient, and now Newgen member, designs for the modern woman. His graduate collection fused Ghanaian dress with London’s multicultural streetwear, honing a series of garments that celebrates effortless style.
Louther
With a background in photography and product design, German-born Olympia Schiele founded Louther after graduating at the University of Munich. Since living in London post-graduation Schiele draws on her intimate expertise within photography, toggling with garment draping, deconstruction, and thus weaves together a personal story, as she finds the interesting aspects that manifest in the everyday mundane.
Liza Keane
Instilled with grit, sleaze, and personal memories, Liza Keane designs for the slightly messy, slightly mentally unstable woman, as she explores her creative practice through self-documentation. Think flesh-infused bodices, garments that almost appear bruised, bikini tops screen-printed with female nipples, Keane takes inspiration from Damien Hirst and Friedrich Nietzche, using design as a means to explore her own body, which, through her authentic approach, she creates a space that women, and the fashion industry, seemingly relates to.
Oscar Ouyang
Give Oscar Ouyang a pair of knitting needles, and he’ll show you the infinite possibilities of a single piece of yarn, as the Chinese-born designer weaves together a fantasy filled with medieval, anime, and games. After foraying in fashion magazine internships, Ouyang turned to design, studying on the foundation course at CSM, he then worked his way up the ladder, enduring a Covid-laden education throughout his MA course. He formally debuted his Fall 2024 collection in Paris, and is now stocked at Dover Street Market.
The Ouze
Tucked away in its Brighton Studio, The Ouze is a fine jewellery label that plays on the intimate power of human touch upon jewellery, founded by Toby Vernon in 2021. With an interest in the natural imperfections caused by human hands, Vernon became infatuated with the relationship between human anatomy and metalware. After studying Fashion Design at Westminster University, Vernon unknowingly began emboldening his clothing with jewellery: brooches, buckles, and buttons, all made with silver, accented his garments. Now, The Ouze celebrates Vernon’s unconventional background, drawing on heirlooms and antiques as inspiration.
Octi
Her eponymous label, Octi, joins The Ouze in becoming one of the two new jewellers to enter the Newgen world. Exploring shapes from the natural world, Octi uses these patterns, textures, and shapes, in their most natural form, and uncovers how they repeat themselves within everyday life. Take a lemon peel, for example, or a gherkin, in their textural forms, they might mimic the precipice of a cliff, or lava, per se. Octi takes these parallels, and creates them in jewellery form.
Words – Freya Goodchild-Bridge
in HTML format, including tags, to make it appealing and easy to read for Japanese-speaking readers aged 20 to 40 interested in fashion. Organize the content with appropriate headings and subheadings (h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h6), translating all text, including headings, into Japanese. Retain any existing
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Capturing the fashionable zeitgeist, there’s a new group of names-to-know in town, courtesy of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative.
Via @britishfashioncouncil
Like a ceremonial, guiding torch for the fash pack, The British Fashion Council’s annual NEWGEN incubator scheme was unveiled yesterday at the hallowed halls of 180 The Strand, revealing its roster of new designers – chock-full of talent and vigour – which it will be representing for the next year. Since the NEWGEN’s inception in 1993, the programme seeks to platform emerging designers with financial support, mentorship, training sessions, and the opportunity to showcase their work on the London Fashion Week calendar. More affectionately, though, it provides fashion-heads with a solid list of designers to watch, and with alumni including Alexander McQueen, Grace Wales Bonner, Bianca Saunders, and Jonathan Anderson, who are we to sway our eyes from the BFC’s wisdom? Proving itself as a formidable force for young creatives, the NEWGEN scheme paves the way for up-and-comers, as they transition from names-to-know, into names we know and love within the fashion industry.
Returning for another year, Aaron Esh, Charlie Constantinou, Johanna Parv, Karoline Vitto, Kazna Asker, and Tolu Coker will all be dusting off their sewing machines, ready for another invigorating LFW season. Along with the NEWGEN recipients, the BFC partners with the Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and Queen Elizabeth II award for British Design, which both highlight one exceptional talent respectively, as the Vogue Designer Fashion Fund awards 150,000 pounds to a designer as they grow their business, whilst the Queen Elizabeth II award recognises the importance of British cultural and sustainable design since the beginning of Queen Elizabeth II’s reign.
But that’s just the half of it, as a troop of new talent awaits, anxiously twiddling their thumbs, brimming with unabashed designs, ready to be showcased at the cornucopia of London Fashion Week. Chosen for ‘their creativity, strong design aesthetic and point of difference’, the BFC explained in a statement. There’s innovative knitwear, subversive tailoring, and enticing metalware, but as always, there’s a lot to be excited about within British fashion, and the Newgen award is an annual testament to this. These are the new talents being represented by the British Fashion Council this year, scroll down to find out more:
BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund recipient: Conner Ives
You may have seen his viral ‘Protect the Dolls’ slogan tee on your favourite celebrity (think: Pedro Pascal, Troye Sivan, Addison Rae). Created by the New-Yorkian designer to raise funds for Trans Lifeline, the Conner Ives inception has been making waves within culture over the past year. Beating off his competition – Dilara Findikoglu, Di Petsa, Edeline Lee, and Talie Byre – Ives has become a hometown hero for London, ever since he graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2020. Protecting the dolls, one slogan tee at a time, Ives’ fashionable vernacular is punctuated by his affinity for nostalgia, deadstock fabrication, and opulent garment creation. He whisks us into a far off world in his collections, and now that he’s won this accolade, we can’t wait to see what he does next.
Queen Elizaebeth II recipient: Patrick McDowell
Taking home the Queen Elizabeth II award is Patrick McDowell, the Liverpool-born CSM graduate, who champions circular design techniques, as they craft limited-edition, made-to-order pieces in their whimsical design style. With clientele including Sarah Jessica Parker and Kiera Knightley, Mcdowell’s business focuses on a direct, one-to-one relationship with the consumer.
ALETTA
Ushering in weird and wonderful garment dimensions, Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham are the double act representing the brains behind ALETTA. Still in its infancy years of design ALETTA was founded in January of this year, after Coomes and Empringham met whilst studying on Central Saint Martins’ BA course. The team have styled Sienna Miller at the Met Gala, fusing their affinity for the surreal with functional silhouettes.
Ewusie
Joshua Ewusie represented one of eight in the Central Saint Martins 2024 MA course, and now his trajectory is sure to be filled with the buzz of London Fashion Week. Born in West London, Ewusie, a former intern for JW Anderson and Maximilian Davis, a BFC Chanel Scholarship recipient, and now Newgen member, designs for the modern woman. His graduate collection fused Ghanaian dress with London’s multicultural streetwear, honing a series of garments that celebrates effortless style.
Louther
With a background in photography and product design, German-born Olympia Schiele founded Louther after graduating at the University of Munich. Since living in London post-graduation Schiele draws on her intimate expertise within photography, toggling with garment draping, deconstruction, and thus weaves together a personal story, as she finds the interesting aspects that manifest in the everyday mundane.
Liza Keane
Instilled with grit, sleaze, and personal memories, Liza Keane designs for the slightly messy, slightly mentally unstable woman, as she explores her creative practice through self-documentation. Think flesh-infused bodices, garments that almost appear bruised, bikini tops screen-printed with female nipples, Keane takes inspiration from Damien Hirst and Friedrich Nietzche, using design as a means to explore her own body, which, through her authentic approach, she creates a space that women, and the fashion industry, seemingly relates to.
Oscar Ouyang
Give Oscar Ouyang a pair of knitting needles, and he’ll show you the infinite possibilities of a single piece of yarn, as the Chinese-born designer weaves together a fantasy filled with medieval, anime, and games. After foraying in fashion magazine internships, Ouyang turned to design, studying on the foundation course at CSM, he then worked his way up the ladder, enduring a Covid-laden education throughout his MA course. He formally debuted his Fall 2024 collection in Paris, and is now stocked at Dover Street Market.
The Ouze
Tucked away in its Brighton Studio, The Ouze is a fine jewellery label that plays on the intimate power of human touch upon jewellery, founded by Toby Vernon in 2021. With an interest in the natural imperfections caused by human hands, Vernon became infatuated with the relationship between human anatomy and metalware. After studying Fashion Design at Westminster University, Vernon unknowingly began emboldening his clothing with jewellery: brooches, buckles, and buttons, all made with silver, accented his garments. Now, The Ouze celebrates Vernon’s unconventional background, drawing on heirlooms and antiques as inspiration.
Octi
Her eponymous label, Octi, joins The Ouze in becoming one of the two new jewellers to enter the Newgen world. Exploring shapes from the natural world, Octi uses these patterns, textures, and shapes, in their most natural form, and uncovers how they repeat themselves within everyday life. Take a lemon peel, for example, or a gherkin, in their textural forms, they might mimic the precipice of a cliff, or lava, per se. Octi takes these parallels, and creates them in jewellery form.
Words – Freya Goodchild-Bridge
and integrate them seamlessly into the new content without adding new tags. Ensure the new content is fashion-related, written entirely in Japanese, and approximately 1500 words. Conclude with a “結論” section and a well-formatted “よくある質問” section. Avoid including an introduction or a note explaining the process.
